Good Luck

Let us know what you find

It will be helpful for others in the future

Take care

Paul

7.39 am

1st update.
Got here at 7am, done the start button tests as suggested by Pete.

The results are..
Start button 1 second: radio on, the 1st time I heard a relay.
Odometer and temp gauge do not work

Start button 10 secs

Everything switches on, I hear severaleral peeps of equal length. Beeps stop after 7 seconds.


Start button with brake

Engine cranks but no start. Fuel tank is nearly full

Did this more than 3 times.

Battery was disconnected when I arrived and had 12.7 v Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

Btw
Here are the errors after the procedure


VIN SALFP24N18H051066
Model L359 - Freelander 2 / LR2 2008
Vehicle scanned on 13 Mar 2019 7:53:05 am
IIDControl 2.9.4.5 Android - IIDTool Pro V3.0 B3962

AAM-Audio Amplifier

B1A01-13 (2F) Speaker 1 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open

B1A02-13 (2F) Speaker 2 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open

B1A03-13 (2F) Speaker 3 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open

ABS-Brake Module

U0402-64 (6 Invalid data received from transmission control module - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 11-03-2019 17:08:18 at 172830 km )

ATCM-Terrain Response

U0415-94 (2 Invalid data received from ABS control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
( on 11-03-2019 17:08:21 at 172830 km )

BCM-Body Control

B10A2-00 (2F) Crash input
( on 11-03-2019 17:09:57 at 172830 km )

B1115-13 (6C) High mounted stoplamp control - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 11-03-2019 17:24:02 at 172830 km )

B1D13-14 (2F) Interior lamps 1 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 11-03-2019 17:38:41 at 172830 km )

U0104-00 (2F) Lost communication with speed control module
( on 11-03-2019 17:11:41 at 172830 km )

HVAC-Ventilation

B1A61-15 (2F) Cabin temperature sensor - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
( on 11-03-2019 17:09:57 at 172830 km ) Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

Now that you know how to get to power mode 2 (10 seconds hold start button)

Move the gear lever to neutral and try to start

Also watch the needle on the Tachometer does it move when cranking

SIGH
he bought a duff battery. It is only 12 days old (seen the invoice ) but he bought a 450 starting power batter of unknown AH
Totally useless, a few cranks and sod all left.

Hint for everybody living in Mexico and south.
Avoid the Raider brand like the pest. They are rubbish, never show the AH, and even the cranking power is usually a lie. I have seen so many new, useless ones that I am absolutely sure. Everest is almost as bad.

So instead of idling my poor Disco v8 for ages as last time I have sent him to swap the battery for a 90AH 800A start one.

We will see, the shop is 30 mins from the ranch. Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

p_gill wrote:

Also watch the needle on the Tachometer does it move when cranking

Check the grounds

List is based on the fault codes





Thanks

Paul

One really stupid question..
Why, eventually, will the car start after pushing it backwards in N regardless of the error? Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

Will be worth checking your wiring for chafing damage underneath the car.

e.g. ABS sensor wiring and the loom that goes to the Haldex module (A known problem). FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

I agree with what Pedro wrote

And I would like to add also check these three connectors

if they come loose the engine wont start




Origional post
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic27748.html

Good Luck

Paul

Wow Paul
Where did you find that? I have been searching an electrical library for ages!
It would be so easy if one knew where the connectors are.

If you want to swap I can offer complete Disco 3, Disco 4 , RR of all ages and Defender plus Freelander 1.

Will go again tomorrow or when he tells me he has a battery charger and the front wings off, I gave up after the new battery arrived with a charge of 12.2 V

And then he told me... that weird noise (wwzzzzzzz) near the alternator has always been there it comes ¿ from the gearbox?
It only stops when I take out the CJB relay nº7
What!
Also when taking out the top brake light I noticed the car had been painted all over. Which means only God knows which earth points they splashed with paint.

The tailgate connections all look good, all beeped through. Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

Here is a sketch of the connectors and the panel that is covering them.





The picture that i posted above is from Sergio's gallery here on Freel2

I don't have the document that he has.

I wish I did.

note: my picture shows what needs to be done but it doesn't show the reference so that you can match up to the wiring diagram.

If I get a hold of the document that Sergio has I will send it to you.

Take care

Paul

anitarrc wrote:

Wow Paul
Where did you find that? I have been searching an electrical library for ages!
It would be so easy if one knew where the connectors are.

If you want to swap I can offer complete Disco 3, Disco 4 , RR of all ages and Defender plus Freelander 1.

Will go again tomorrow or when he tells me he has a battery charger and the front wings off, I gave up after the new battery arrived with a charge of 12.2 V

And then he told me... that weird noise (wwzzzzzzz) near the alternator has always been there it comes ¿ from the gearbox?
It only stops when I take out the CJB relay nº7
What!
Also when taking out the top brake light I noticed the car had been painted all over. Which means only God knows which earth points they splashed with paint.

The tailgate connections all look good, all beeped through.