hi everyone , I have just bought a 13 plate freelander 2 , and driving home yesterday all power dropped in all gears and went into limp mode,amber and red warning light came on and performance restriction light. Had it plugged in and found turbo issues coming up . does this sound like a new turbo needed or could it be something less expensive, any thoughts ? cheers

It would be worth checking that the turbo actuator arm is working correctly and not sticking. You can access it through the r/h wheelarch and unclip the rod from the actuator and work the arm back and forward as the variable turbo vanes can gum up and stick.Some WD40 or similar can be sprayed to help free things up. If that does not help it might be the actuator itself and replacements are available and it is quite easy to change. What P codes did the car show?

My guess would be split pipe very common fault

Good shout from JF. The pipe that splits is normally the very short hose tucked up at the front of the engine where it attaches to the plastic intercooler pipe. if it has split you can normally hear an increase in noise from the engine. Good luck!

cheers everyone, code was p0047 and pipes was checked by AA guy and couldn't see anything but the noise was louder from down where turbo was ?timing belt side?

Noise generally whooshing sound would certainly point to split intercooler hose, they are not easy to spot until you remove them. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Whilst the TD4 turbo actuators can be changed relatively easily, if it is an SD4 then it becomes significantly more difficult. These turbos are Mitsubishii TD04V turbos, and the actuators are solid state electronic. Typically, they are not sold separately and a whole new turbo will be required, unless you can find one on evil bay and cannibalise it for the actuator.

Or better still, it's a £30 split pipe as previously mentioned.

If its that elbow right down the bottom you will only find it with a smoke can, squirt the smoke into the air intake and if you have a split pipe it will show on the pressure side. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Thanx again, will take down my local garage wher they can access it a bit easier👍

let us know what you find please

hi peeps, the latest on turbo , had it smoke tested, all the pipes seems fine , however apparently you can move the actuator arm so not seized up but the arm is electronically not responding. ive been told that it is a full new turbo that is needed at a cost totalling £1300 [ouch] 1000 for turbo, 300 fitting there abouts , the car is a td4 GS model

As per my earlier post, far better to look out for a salvage one. The actuator is only half the size of a fag packet and simple enough to swap over and plug in.....you might get a couple of hundred back for the turbo itself if someone's has blown and their actuator is actually ok.

Edit: just seen that you state it's a TD4, which uses a Garret turbo. They are one of the most common turbos around as a lot of other manufacturers use them as well..... I'll dig the OE part number out and you can trawl the web, no point in buying new, they are cheap enough used.

Part numbers: Garrett GT1749V
OEM Part numbers: 6G9Q6K682CA - 9684856680 - LR024702 - LR003578 - LR006862 - 6G9Q6K682CB

Happy hunting!

do you think its ok to put a used turbo in ,not knowing its life span or can you get a reconditioned unit which would probably get a warranty ,cheers for product numbers will defo have a trawl

If you are confident with the condition of your existing turbo, then swap the actuator and arm over. Simple as that.