I cant remember the exact one - maybe LRO Monthly ?

I saw it on the shelf in my local supermarket this morning - Its a very comprehensive 4 to 6 page article. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
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Hi interesting thread. I used to do tooling for the old Rover company. We used to set diff bearing preload at minus 4 thou, ie preload. Use hypoid 90 gear oil. The pinion shaft shown looked as if it was not ground true between journals. Or the machining of the diff housing is wrong, ie the bearing bores are out of line. Not on a common centreline. I rebuilt a lot of tooling for Land rover in the 90's and the bearing bores were often 10 thou out of line due to knackered bearings and poor original machining on old worn out machine tooling. The same problem is often built into today's CNC machine tools. Trust me I used to be a Quality consultant to an American Multi-national engineering company. Parts from India were generally Crap. No insult to Indian engineers, but penny pinching Accountants upstairs, and weak managers. Brinelling like that shown is overtightened bearings that are out of line. land rover has known about the problem of too much preload for years. BMW used to hammer their engineering managers for poor performance. They usually just told them to F__k O__ we have always done it this way. All Mini crankshafts were 4 to 5 thou bent as standard, the block bores were the same. 80k miles was engine design life. I have two LR2's to sort with noisy transmission. Should be interesting.

Hi,

Thanks for your comments! I have to admit that I do not have the necessary equipment or skills to evaluate and check if the bearing journals or bores are out of line, but the mass of failures to these diffs will add to the thought that there is a design/quality fault within the production of these diffs. The fail rate also seems to be not consistent as one -07 diff would last for 250.000km and another will fail before 100.000km, both used on road only. The later diffs with the larger nose bearing seems also to suffer the same issue.

I put all mine together with Timken bearings, which I believe is the best ones and does also have the highest load rating on the paper. I try to set the preload to the lowest value within the tolerance LR specifies. The 4 first diffs I rebuilt sits under vehicles that is used on adaily basis, and no negative feedback is received so far.

MRRover, well done for your work in creating this post. I've just completed the same procedure using the workshop manual and your guide has provide invaluable. I have a couple of questions that you may be able to help with:

1) Did you buy/make a special tool to seat the oil seals? Or can I just tap them in flush with a delrin rod or similar?

2) I tightened the pinion nut to the specified torque and then collapsible spacer did crush and all backlash was removed. However, the torque required to rotate the pinion seems a little high, especially when compared the way it ran before the new bearings were fitted. I have a torque meter but need to get it calibrated as I'm not entirely sure how accurate it currently is. There doesn't seem to be any reference to the pinion requiring a higher than recommended force to turn it in the manual so I'm not sure what to do if this is the case, other than to start again with new collapsible spacer and nut. I've checked the tooth meshing and it all looks good.

Thanks again for the post - it's been really helpful in slowly running through the operation myself.

Cheers!

For the driveshaft oil seals, I knocked them in gently with a socket so that, as you say, they ended up flush with the diff casing.

Like you, I felt that the torque to initiate turning after the preload felt a little high. However, it felt roughly the same as the diff I removed and a second hand diff I bought - Both of which turned out to be fine. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
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Thanks for the tips Pedro. Got all the seals in squarely with sockets, as suggested.

I'm still a little unsure about the preload readings I'm getting. Nearer 1.7nm than the suggested 1.1-1.3nm outlined in the manual. The workshop guide doesn't take into account new bearings being fitted throughout, however, so I can't quite decide whether to start again or not. I know the preload reading is reduced by worn bearings so do you think my reading is ok, given the fact the both pinion bearings have been replaced?

I'm cautious about the preload reading dropping off once the bearings do a few miles.

Thanks again for the help!

I did note something you said in your first post which was different to mine - I followed the LR instruction and applied no lubricant to the bearing and when I applied the set torque figure there was still slack in the shaft i.e. the collapsible spacer was still untouched. I had to apply huge amounts of torque to build up to the preload figure. Mind you, I did do it outside in December so temperature is probably a factor here too. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

brannigan wrote:

MRRover, well done for your work in creating this post. I've just completed the same procedure using the workshop manual and your guide has provide invaluable. I have a couple of questions that you may be able to help with:

1) Did you buy/make a special tool to seat the oil seals? Or can I just tap them in flush with a delrin rod or similar?

2) I tightened the pinion nut to the specified torque and then collapsible spacer did crush and all backlash was removed. However, the torque required to rotate the pinion seems a little high, especially when compared the way it ran before the new bearings were fitted. I have a torque meter but need to get it calibrated as I'm not entirely sure how accurate it currently is. There doesn't seem to be any reference to the pinion requiring a higher than recommended force to turn it in the manual so I'm not sure what to do if this is the case, other than to start again with new collapsible spacer and nut. I've checked the tooth meshing and it all looks good.

Thanks again for the post - it's been really helpful in slowly running through the operation myself.

Cheers!

MRRover75, that's all very helpful , thank you! I tightened to the specified 250nm and was getting a preload reading of 2nm, so I will loosen off a fraction, as you suggest, and replace the spacer if required. Thank goodness for this site as the workshop manual left a lot of questions unanswered.

Thanks too for the tip about the pinion seal. I'll probably buy the tool sold by Land Rover to be sure of no leaks.

The only thing I am now wondering is how the shims are selected in factory. There must be a surface from which measurements are made. I only question this as, in the instance of finding a diff that has already be opened up and worked on, there must be a way to make a simple measurement to check that the shims are correct. I know this is not difficult on older models of differentials.

Thanks again for the tips and for sharing the steps you took!

Last edited by brannigan on 7th Mar 2019 9:48 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I am glad you find my thread useful

I have made the same thought as you regarding the shims. From a DIY perspective, I think its best to just leave the shim setup as-is.

BTW,
Regarding you collapsible spacer, there are two types available. The one for the later diff with the larger nose bearing uses a shorter spacer as the bearing is wider. Make sure you have used the correct spacer and nose bearing for your diff

Thanks again MMRover75!

I'm working on a couple of 2014 Freelander 2 diffs and have fitted a larger SKF bearing to match what came out. The height and width appears to be the same as what you used, though the bearing cone itself is different in that it allows a greater surface area on which the rollers may run. The code is:

32206BJ2/QCL7CVA606 SKF

It's interesting that you mention different spacers being available as I've only seen LR023443; I may well be using the wrong part - my results seem to differ from yours in this area. Preload backed off nicely as I loosened the nut off a touch but I'll call around tomorrow to see if I can find another part number for the post 2011 diff spacer.

Many thanks again!

Hi,

On disassembly of the later diff, I found a shorter collapsible spacer than on the older ones, so I assume that the same is not used on both. The shortening in length reflects the extra width of the larger bearing. Despite a lot of searching, I could not find the part number for the shorter spacer, so I took off 4mm in a lathe of a long one to make everything fit. Attached picture shows the used spacers:



As the later diff casing has a deeper bearing bore, it is not possible to fit the larger bearing to the earlier diff`s, but I guess this is something you allready know

Here is also a photo of the pinion seal installation tool I made to make it seatet squarely and at the correct depth:

Good work MRRover75. I've just ordered the tool for the task from Bosch so hopefully will avoid the dreaded oil leak. If anyone reading needs the dimensions to duplicate then let me know.

I was, in hindsight, too hasty in stripping the parts - expecting replacements produced by Land Rover to all match up. Certainly a more involved job than the manual would have one believe and I thank you again for sharing all the process you went through - it's made the job much easier for those reading.

Can't wait to get started on the front differential! Loads more tools to make and more mistakes to learn from on the way...

Hi Brannigan!

It would be nice if you can share the dimensions for the Bosch tool

I have not dealt with the front PTU yet, and I hope I does not need to As far As I know, setting up the pinion on the PTU is similar to the rear diff. What I have read, is that the spline on the shaft that connects to the gearbox has a tendency to wear out and replacement is the only cure if that is the case.
It would be greatly appreciated if you can share your experience regarding your rebuild of the front PTU

There is a forum member that did a DIY bearing replacement of his PTU, the thread can be found here: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29989.html?

X-section of the front PTU:

Had a PM about the tool dimensions and it's just arrived from Germany - will post measurements this weekend!