Looks like I spoke too soon.

Judder has come back! It was ok for a few days but it gone back to how it was

I took the pump off today as I thought more crap maybe in filter cage but it was clean. Also tested pump and working fine

Strange how it was ok then back to how it was.

Last edited by Space on 15th Feb 2019 5:00 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Make sure your loom to the Haldex module has not chafed through -- According to Austen @ Bell this can happen.

Otherwise, it sounds to me like a new pump or, worse, module is required. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Pump ok.

This removal of 70ml of oil, perhaps there is the issue and not removed enough oil?
Too much oil not allowing plates to release?

Sorry, just spotted you said pump was ok.

The Haldex oil levelling procedure is very strict and, therefore, the removal of the 70 ml is usually done with a marked syringe.

The first time I did my Haldex I just change the filter, cleaned the pump screen and blew compressed air into the clutch pack via the holes on the outside. I did it again 15,000 miles later and the pump screen was fully covered again already so this time I used brake cleaner to flush through the oilway in the diff housing, the Haldex cavities and the clutch pack. There are some Russian videos on youtube where the Haldex is submerged in cleaner and the clutch pack opened but I don't know how you do the latter.

In case you don't know, you can also buy a kit that includes a new Haldex module gasket and new piston O-rings - Costs about £35.

Let us know how you get on. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Drained the 70ml. It’s definitely better than it was more of a rumble than a judder now

Seems as good as gold now, maybe the oil needed to get round the system/clutch plates a bit more. Pleased I didnt need a new haldex

Result  FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Don't forget that the Haldex is engaged when the car starts off and disengages to FWD at some speed, then re-engages when coming back to a stop on dry tarmac.

Noticed this issue in recent weeks. Initially thought I was imagining it but last week definitely shuddering when moving off or stopping with lock on. No warnings on dash etc. Last changed my haldex oil 2 years ago, about 25000 miles since. Guess it's time for another service. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

There's a magic fix apparently, only the person that said there was never said what the fix was, and hasn't been back on since.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I went through a whole world of Haldex pain last year following a diff rebuild by a local "specialist". It was fine for the first few hundred miles and then I started getting banging noises through the drive train when maneuvering or as I passed through around 30mph, which is where the Haldex releases. Above 30mph all was fine again.

Had the unit flushed twice by the original garage, but no change, after a 100 miles or so the issues would return. Then I took a look at it myself learning a huge amount about the Haldex system along the way. In the end I noticed that the diff oil level had risen above the fill hole, which should be impossible. Finally the issues were cured by the replacement of the pinion oil seal and 2 further Haldex flushes to remove the oil contamination, there was obviously a small leak between the diff and haldex, when I checked the pinion oil seal it wasn't quite set perfectly level and having spoken to the garage that did the diff rebuild it became clear they didn't have the correct tool to set the pinion oil seal level and at the right depth, which is really critical on these. I suspect most garages wouldn't spot a tiny leak between the diff and Haldex and even the slightest oil contamination causes the clutches in the Haldex to not operate correctly.

I do also suspect it is very important to get the fill level right, including ensuring the vehicle is level when filling. On one occasion I had the rear end on stands when I filled the haldex. When I jacked up the front to level the car quite a lot of Haldex fluid came out, then after running the car I removed the 70ml.

Can't for the life of me see how an additional 70ml of oil makes the slightest difference to the operation of the haldex. We are talking about an egg cup full amount of oil. I did remove it the first time I changed the oil. Didn't bother the last time. Seems to be running silently. I wonder how these are filled from the factory? Can't imagine LR employees diligently sucking out 70 ml from each vehicle as it goes down the line. I suspect they are filled with a measured quantity of oil from dry fill. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

In the normal scenario, the Haldex fluid technically can't get into the diff oil, or the other way round, as long as the seal is correctly seated at the correct depth.

There's a drilling (known as a weep hole) in the underside of the diff case, which the seal (it's a labyrinth seal) where both sides are designed to seal each component, the labyrinth being over the weep hole.
So basically any fluid that gets past the seal, be that from the diff or Haldex, simply drips out the weep hole, giving an indication that there's a problem, as well as preventing the fluids from mixing.
This assumes that the weep hole is actually clear, and hasn't been blocked by the seal. There is a point in the insertion depth of the seal, that the weep hole can be blocked by the seal, but it's very unlucky to be set at that exact position to block the weep hole, but it is possible.

Dry filling to the correct volume is totally acceptable, and what I do myself. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Didn’t know about the weep hole/labyrinth setup… Thats well impressive!

If the pinion oil seal is not set at exactly the correct depth it covers and blocks the weep hole, which is what happened with mine. Too shallow or too deep and it is blocked, also if it isn't exactly perpendicular it can block it. The pinon oils seall needs to be set with 1mm of the correct depth for the weep hole to work as it should and it's very easy to be either side of this if you don't have the correct tool.