So managed to get the rack off today, thanks for the advice. Released the back of the subframe, remove the anti-roll bar, take off the exhaust mount on the rear of the subframe, and release the engine stabiliser on the RHS. A bit fiddly to get the roll bar off, and indeed the rack, and you have to be careful not to damage the turbo controls, but it does work. Oh, and if you don't have one, get a breaker bar, some of those bolts are tight!

All I have to do now is get a replacement and put it all back together!

This thread as been helpful to me as I now see that I too may have to purchase the top half of the power steering pressure pump hose, early this week I had a whining noise coming from the engine soon found out the power steering reservoir was low, topped it up, but it soon went down to minimum again.

Found a leak on the return hose (LR029185) therefore I am going to purchase that plus, a new reservoir(LR00578) can someone supply the code number for the top section of the power pressure hose please, cheers Arctic

1

2

Hi all, I have to replace my high pressure hydraulic steering hose due to a weep at the pump that's contaminating the auxiliary drive belt, been putting it off a while but due to replace the timing belt & auxiliary belt so need to replace this hose first.

My hose and is in pretty good condition and looks to be pretty good where it joins onto the lower hose. I just wondered if there is any chance of breaking the coupling to install the top hose or whether it's impossible to do and the bottom section has to be purchased and installed?

Now replaced my leaking hydraulic high pressure hose. I can confirm that there's no way that you can separate the flexible hose from the bottom steel hoses that bolt onto the rack. I ended up having to buy that as well, even though the fitting is a snap ring like on a drive shaft.

I did manage to separate & reconnect the low pressure side although its a bit of a faff.

When replacing the hoses it's easy to connect them in situ not as I did and connect them together before installing which made fitting the bottom steel pipes to the rack a bit difficult.

The Torx bolt that holds the steel pipes to the rack is in a very vulnerable position & is a nightmare to get out due to corrosion. I recon that you could drill it out and re-tap it in situ instead of having to remove the steering rack as it's just a steel tab. The bolt doesn't go into the casting of the steering rack or anything.

I would also recommend that if anyone's torx bolt is still in good condition. Take it out & replace it with a stainless one & give everything a good coating of Waxy Oil.














After the new hoses where fitted I bled the remaining hydraulic fluid using a new dash pot as on the youtube video. I used a syringe to empty the old fluid. Something I noticed when replacing the fluid was that the old stuff was really hard to suck up the pipe but the new fluid was easy.

Probably worth changing the fluid occasionally so the power steering pump doesn't have to work as hard.

Yeah, I've had that same problem with a hose getting stuck in. I'm going to take the power steering rack off, heat it to attempt to get the bit out from the rack.

Have a good look at it before you decide to drop the rack.

The bolt goes into a bracket not actually the rack casting.

I recon you could drill the bolt and re-tap the captive nut at the back of the bracket. Your not going to have to drill into the rack casting.

Also the subframe has to be loosened to remove the rack.

First post here and just wanted to provide some insight to this subject. This was one of the first helpful post I came across. Just went through the replacement of the high pressure line that runs across the top of the rack. I replaced both the high pressure line and return line as they were paired together under LR029184 part number.

As many have stated the quick connect between the 2 high pressure lines is next to impossible to separate. I also found several Volvo forums that discussed this connection as well and found no one that was able to properly disconnect the quick connect. Well I was able to, but it wasn't pretty or the easiest job I have performed.

Reason for the repair was the high pressure line on my '09 LR2 got so rusted it sprung a pin hole leak. You can see in the photo below the stream of power steering fluid from the high pressure line.




There is a collar on this line that is attached to the black rubber gasket that can be seen between the quick connection joint. It appears this collar is supposed to be able to to be pushed up into the quick connection point and open the circlip up enough to disconnect the two lines. I was unable to get this to work. I tried server methods of trying to prior this joint open with no luck.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

^^^Great first post!

Sorry to resurrect this folks. I have been putting off replacing the rack but finally got around to doing it. New rack, why not new pipes, famous last words. The trouble has been reconnecting the high pressure hose LR001099, more specifically getting it to lock into place. The metal circlip seemed “locked in” but no reassuring click. Dubious. I added fluid (new reservoir too) and bled with engine off. Lo and behold, the moment I started engine and attempted to steer, it disconnected with a nice noise, and I git to immediately kill the engine. Messy…

After a few more attempts to get it to lock, no joy. I don’t trust starting the engine again. I said to myself maybe it’s because it’s not an LR branded hose, that will teach me… new part on order.

Question: has anyone else had difficulty getting the high pressure line to lock?

I bought a HP hose that was supposed to be OE. When it arrived I was sceptical as it looked different with a different shape bracket.
After fitting the hose to a new metal pipe section (that had rusted very thin), I found the joint leaking at idle. Now both parts being new it should have been leak free, but it wasn't. I tried turning the steering and the HP hose joint to the pipe popped apart, so there was clearly an issue as these two items are supposed to be difficult to make part company, not do it on their own.

I looked for another supplier and ordered a genuine LR HP hose and fitted that, problem solved.
I demanded a refund from the seller which I got, after leaving damaging feedback. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

My top hose lr001099 is weeping from the crimp at the top, I found this thread and wondered given my bottom hoses are not uber crusty thankfully will it be possible to disconnect or is it just not worth the hassle?

whats the intended operation ?
push the collar piece upwards and do what with the top hose ? push down - pull up?

what is the part number of the bottom metal hose part - I was hoping it would be easy but clearly mistaken

I used a pair of hose pliers so easy. You just undo the pipe at the stay and the top connection so it's loose then push the rubber connector up and the pipe comes off or you can use fuel line disconnectors or make your own out of a plastic bottle cap.


I posted a solution on here so you need to do a search also you tube shows the use of the fuel line line disconnectors.

Here are the hose pliers increased in price since I bought them.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Long-Reach-Hose-P...p;sr=8-112

I Like Chips wrote:

I used a pair of hose pliers so easy. You just undo the pipe at the stay and the top connection so it's loose then push the rubber connector up and the pipe comes off or you can use fuel line disconnectors or make your own out of a plastic bottle cap.


I posted a solution on here so you need to do a search also you tube shows the use of the fuel line line disconnectors.