Trouble is their about 5 hours away!

I've done Haldex/Diff twice and my Haldex on its own once - All on my drive using a set of 4 wooden ramps that I made myself.

I always remove the exhaust for Haldex / Diff but cant remember if I did for just the Haldex.

Removing the Haldex on its own was not difficult for me but the prop had been dropped the year before by Landrover when they repaired the fuel tank wiring so the connection was not difficult to separate and so no need to touch the diff carrier mounting at all. Also mine is a 2010 so removing the flange off the Haldex is easy. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

"Also mine is a 2010 so removing the flange off the Haldex is easy."

Wish mine was  Jules

Mine is 2010 which flange are you referring to?

This one....

 FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Does the prop shaft come off easy once bolts removed?

First time I did it was not too bad as it had been off a year before (See above).

You will need to hammer around the edge gently to break any rust and then compress the end of the prop shaft and it will come out of the flange. The Evoque DIY above talks about loosening the diff carrier as well but I have never needed to do that.

I put a tad of anti-seize on the propshaft / flange connection that first time and subsequently its been a doddle to separate them. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Thanks Pedro. I might have ago next weekend

FWIW the 2014 has a wider and deeper flange - I had to drop the centre prop shaft bearing to be able to get the prop shaft out of the flange Jules

A serviced mine a couple of years ago have a look at this link
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28400.html

Not too hard but would put on stands so you can rotate drive shaft to get it off.

My understanding is the Haldex is only engaged when the pump is active and you would get a transmission or special mode fault if it was in lockup when the car thought it was disengaged.

Worth servicing anyway as mine was full of gunk !


Roger Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8

Virtualrog
I read your excellent description of haldex maintenance, and in it noticed this line.

The prop shaft end can then be taken out of the cup on the Haldex end.
Bell engineer said there are later models with a rubber vibration mount, these are hard to shock off.

Do you know why a vibration mount had to be put in the later models. Is this a clue about the dreaded transmission vibration which effects some FL2s? I think the later models were updated with things found to be necessary for the Evoque. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Yes a servicing may cure these symptoms if they just appear but be prepared to change completely the haldex as it may has internally failed.

Don't know why they changes to rubber mount, mine came out with a couple of sharp hits with cold chisel and large hammer. Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8

Carried out service to haldex today, wasn't to hard to removed.

ca Sure enough filters full of debris as well as unit!

Filter and oil changed and judder gone and 4x4 working!

why is it recommended to drain 70ml seems like such a small amount?

Well done for doing it and for feeding back to the forum.

There are a few theories on here for the removing 70 ml bit but, IIRC, when in the volvo its not required..... FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone