Hi there, just pull a bit more. The motor's make contact with the foil ,no solder,pressure is exerted on them via the housing.

 Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Excellent! All I need now is the motivation to pull apart the door again

Just did mine, driver's door lock didn't work. Personally, I found this guide VERY helpful http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic101872.html
Especially for the removing the door handle part (as you can't open this side with a key blade).

One thing I had to do after the completion was window reset, because driver's window didn't work on the one-touch open/close, and also I couldn't close the window using fob key (by holding the button for 3 seconds - all windows opened/closed but driver's window). After the window reset all works fine.


But I was wondering: On my car, which is SE variant, when I took the door card off, there are two white connectors at the top, one was connected but the other one was not and there was no plug to connect to. Do you know what are those connectors for?
https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...TARE-1.JPG

EDIT: when I took the DC motor from the latch apart, one of the carbons was broken in pieces, so I had to replace it.

About to start mine, the CL cannot pull/push the lock.

Only 4 years old so hope it's not the motor itself. Took the door skin off to have a look and get a feel for the job and with the internal handle disconnected the cable is harder to move than it should be and feels a little noisy behind the lock itself so I don't think it's the cable in its sleeve. The detent seems to be too strong for the servo.

Is there a TSB covering the locks? Prog rock is cool!
2012 XS SD4 Indus Silver

Congratulations to cata26bcn for the 1st class posts on this problem and to all those who contributed with further solutions.
Brilliant.

I sprayed Silicon oil into mine a couple of times and after 2 weeks of the fluid seeping around the components I have a fully working remote lock. I was dubious about it working especially after a few days of nothing doing, I gave up but just over a week later Bingo it now works every time. Offset your Carbon emissions by boycotting Baked Beans and all Green Vegitables.

Hi all,
so I had to take the mechanism apart again, but this time, the carbon brushes fell apart. All motors that I have at home have a different kind of brushes. I managed to put them in the broken motor from the door latch and it works, but not 100%, so I thought best would be to buy the whole new motor to replace it. However, I couldn't find it anywhere.
Do you know where I could buy one of these? It is the bigger motor in the latch. I don't even know the specifications.
Thanks

Morning Guys
My nearside rear door fails to unlock when using the remote, although it can be unlocked manually from inside.
When sitting inside next to the door and trying to unlock it with the remote, I noticed that the Lock Lever (short top one) only MOVES halfway through the arc from what it should - just not enough to unlock the door.
Before tackling the dismantling of the door as described above, does anyone have any ideas why the lock lever only moves part of the way?
Much appreciated.
Regards Snorkie
Pretoria
South Africa

Hi Snorkie,
I had exactly the same issue on mine, but I couldn't lock on first try. I had to press the button 2 or 3 times to make the door lock fully.
Have you tried, when sitting next to the door, pressing the fob key more than once to see if the door locks completely? If so, then the problem is caused by bad contact in the motor.

I am pretty sure your problem will be cured by cleaning the motor brushes, or by motor replacement.

Thank you all for one of the most informative Freelander 2 discussions I’ve come across. My HST has succumb to failed rear locks (only partial movement of the interior locking handle, intermittent locking/unlocking).

If I try the lubricant fix first, where am I lubriacating? Is WD40 on the cable all that can be done without removing the window and latch?

Has anyone successfully found a source for the motors in these units please? Keen to replace just the motors if possible. I see some Johnson motors on eBay but if there are two motors/sizes would be good to know which.

Alternatively, can anyone list the specs/dimensions of the motors they cleaned please?

I’d also like to ‘give back’ and not just ‘take’ - the lock and window were not operating at all on my nearside rear door but the part is a Ford Motor Company control module and this item on eBay (‘FORD MONDEO / S MAX / GALAXY REAR DOOR CONTROL MODULE 2007 - 2008 7G9T-14B534-BE’) was £12 and was plugged in and just worked. Unfortunately then found both rear actuators are sticky as above.

Thanks.

Check out this thread as well http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31350.html

These are the problem motors https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-3V-12V-5V-6V...3410071011 No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Thank you, perfect. Also ordered the £23 pattern part for near-term fix and intend to refurb original unit with your recommended motor. Freelander 2 HST

Following on from this has anyone managed to remove the actuator with the cables attached so you can detach them on the bench? If so how ? Cheers !

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread.

I replaced the off-side actuator this weekend as the existing lock was not locking with the remote control and I had an error message on the code reader.

This thread meant I could turn the job around in a couple of hours. I removed the external door handle assembly with the actuator and would recommend this. It was pretty straightforward (one torx bolt on the outside of the door under the plastic cap and a torx screw inside the door with a handy hole to poke the screwdriver through and it was off): I could not envisage changing the cables over in situ.

The only struggle I had was removing the external plastic cap covering the lock next to the door handle, but managed to manoeuvre it off with a thin blade palette knife, wrapped in masking tape to protect the paint, together with some foul language. Other than that plain sailing. Useful to have a plentiful supply of the plastic door card rivets - I have a sack of them as a seasoned Land Rover owner who dreads any task involving door cards.

On removing the actuator, I noted it had the signs of a second hand part. With the track record these things have, I would always go for new parts and I bought a couple from the internet for £40 each.

I now need to do the near-side rear actuator which will not unlock with the remote and anticipate it being much quicker!!

Thank you once again.