My LH rear door stopped locking. Locking can be done manually. I have changed the Control Unit and locking is normal. However with the new unit, both LH windows only move a couple of inches before stopping and require multiple uses of the switch to get them to fully open or close. Resetting does not fix it. A hard reset does not fix it. Also the LH mirror does not fold. When I refit the original Control Unit, the windows and mirror work normally, but of course, it will not lock.

I have done a search but although other people seem to have had similar problems, no one has posted the solution. Not that I can find anyway. Can anyone help please?

It would sound as if the runners are out of alignment, but you didn't touch these did you?
As an easy first step, maybe try running some 'fairy' down the runner channels and see if that makes any difference. FL2 now gone and have a couple of items left for sale:-

Brodit active iPhone holder + Brodit dash clip,
Bluetooth Music Streaming Module.

the fact that he has put the original control unit back in and they all work as normal except the original lock problem would suggest that the replacement control unit is faulty.

was it a new unit or 2nd hand ?

Thanks for the input, but the windows still "stutter" even when being pulled up or down. And, of course, they work fine with the original control unit refitted, so I don't think it can be anything to do with resistance. What I didn't mention, because I feel a bit of an idiot, is that this is the second new control unit I have fitted and both do the same thing - lock fine, but both LH windows stutter and the door mirror does not fold. Never-less-less I'll try a rubber lubricant because I'm desperate! I tell you if it works!

Thanks RogB. I have just read your reply. This is the second brand new unit I have fitted. I have one going cheap if anyone wants it!

have you done the hard reset before and after fitting the replacement control unit ?

does the main ECU need to be told its got a new control unit ? (I seem to remember that changing the battery sometimes needed to be 'told' to the ECU for the BMS to work properly)

Thanks again RogB. Yes, I do hard resets at the drop of a hat! Reading various threads elsewhere on the site, they seem to say that these units are "plug and play". They handshake at switch on and just get on with it. That makes sense to me, especially as the locking function works with no problem. I think I am just going to drive round for a while and see what happens. I will report back, but meanwhile if any of you can bus experts out there think of anything.....

What part number are you fitting?

LR009023 as supplied by Dan. Could it be the wrong one?

It is stamped FoMoCo, which I thought was a bit sad.

Lots of Ford parts on the Freelander 2 as it was built at the time that Ford owned Land Rover. Also has a lot of Volvo parts and the engine was originally a Peugeot Unit. Makes sense to share parts as it helps keep costs down.

Greybeard wrote:

LR009023 as supplied by Dan. Could it be the wrong one?

Thank you Vanny. You may be on to something.....or not!

The original is 6G9T 14B534 BL and the replacement is 7G9T 14B534 BE. Could the change from 6 to 7 and L to E be significant? I am certainly suspicious!

I went for a drive around and did another hard reset to no avail.

So the module you have is pre face lift. The prefix is the year and vehicle model so the 6 to a 7 just means a model year change, pretty normal. The numbers in the middle are the part family. The suffix / last two digits tell us something about the software/hardware combination and in some cases where the part is used.

I'm not too good with pre facelift part numbers, I'll have to do some investigation. It might be worth just cross referencing with Dan what engineering part the LR spare part number links to. He can see it in EPC.

I haven't had chance to fire up SDD and see what instructions it gives for door module change. I would have thought a new module needs to be told where in the car it is and the range for the windows (top and bottom stall points) I think there is also some anti trap calibration too.

Thanks again for your help Vanny. Very interesting. I will follow this up with Dan (he may well be reading this!). Are the "stall points" more than a window reset? Maybe you will be able to tell me if the module has to be programmed by a dealer, something I was hoping to avoid!

Currently I have put the original unit back in. Windows and mirror are back to normal and I can cope with the locking. The only drawback is that I have to disconnect the battery when left for a couple of days or the battery will go flat.