All,

It was time to change the mounts on my 2008 3.2 (115,000 miles)

The mount had collapsed to the point that I was no longer willing to keep it in service.



First remove the Coolant reservoir
- remove some coolant to make the job easier
- small bolt (unscrew)
- electrical connection on bottom (squeeze the lock feature and pull off)
- 2 small coolant lines





Then Remove the Torq Mount





Next Lift the engine

I used a floor jack and a rubber puck




Now remove the Mount Bracket




Then remove the mount





Picture of the OLD vs NEW mount to show the collapse








The new mount is about 19 mm (with no load applied to it)









With the mount compressed by the weight of the engine the gap is about 15 mm





I was reading on the Volvo boards and they convinced me to change the mount

Note: I change both mounts shown above

Good Luck

Paul

Which were the symptoms?

Alex,

Typically what happens is the rubber on the Torq rod fails

In my case I caught the problem soon enough that my torq rod was fine

The only difference after is less vibration and better shifts on the automatic transmission

Both changes are small

My recommendation is to check the gap and replace the mount when it gets collapsed

Good luck

Paul

Alex,

I recently bought a Volvo S80 with the same 3.2 as my Land Rover.

The Volvo has 125,000 miles on it

My Land Rover only has 115,000 miles

The part number for the lower compression mounts are similar but not identical

7G92 6F012 AB Land Rover Manufacturer Trelleborg, Germany
6G92 6F012 ED Volvo Manufacturer Trelleborg, Germany

Picture of the Volvo engine mount




Here is a picture of the broken Torq Rod bushing that I removed from the Volvo




Good Luck

Paul

Thanks for all the info!

thanks for the info, I will check on my i6 (currently with 120k miles). Didn't notice any problems related to engine.

Alpenostrand,

Let us know what you find.

My mount was so collapsed that I couldn't get my finger in there to touch the rubber part shown above.


One interesting thing to note, it rained today so I had a chance to evaluate the new mount.

From a dead stop on a very wet surface pressing hard on the gas pedal and no more movement in the steering wheel.

Before fixing the mount my steering wheel would move as the Haldex engaged and the power was sent to the rear.

Now nothing.

I had been thinking about replacing the lower control arm bushings to eliminate the twitch in the steering but not any more.


Good Luck

Paul

Are the engine mounts and anti-torque mount wear and tear items or are they covered by warranty?

Just noticed that my anti-torque mounting is starting to shear around edges. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Ian,

I am a long way out of warranty and the warranty here is likely different.

Sorry I can't be of much help

Paul

Paul, do you plan on changing the other engine mount and lower insulator? I did all 4 on mine about 18 months ago after I noticed that the upper insulator was all torn up inside and the job was pretty simple using the manual and following the steps.

TX,

From what I can tell the four part numbers are

Note: I only replaced the first two

What was the condition of the four mounts that you replaced?

LR021634




LR000597




LR039527




LR062669



Thanks

Paul

Passenger side (US model) insulator rubber was all torn up and the passenger side engine mount had collapsed just like yours. The drivers side engine mount (gearbox side looked OK but I think any damage is not so easy to spot as it is with the passenger side mount. The drivers side insulator also had damage to the rubber. This may have been from it being under car and so exposed to a harsher environment but I figured the passenger mounts had failed a while ago so much of the load was being taken by the drivers side. As you noticed, the driving experienced was much improved after replacement. I went with genuine LR parts since the originals had lasted 100K miles.

Moving to another subject, have you heard of any failures of the Rear End Accessory Drive (READ) while moving in Volvo circles? Apparently the bearing in mine failed at around 120K requiring an engine replacement. I say apparently because I originally sent the car into an independent to have the alternator replaced because of what sounded like bad alternator bearings. The garage did the change but it didn't fix the problem so they diagnosed the READ. They had the car for 2 weeks but were making no progress with the READ replacement so I had the car towed to another independent who said they found metal shavings in the oil. In the end was it just cheaper to get a 60K miles used engine and have them fit it. At the time I was very busy with work and also having a pool installed so time was tight and I thought I'd just let a mechanic handle it but I won't make that mistake again.

TX,

Thanks for the information about the motor mounts.

For now I only replaced the two that I indicated above but I will check the condition of the other mounts as well.


Moving to the R.E.A.D. - unfortunately I haven't read about failures and I don't have anything useful to share.

I do have a few questions about your LR2.

How long have you owned it?

What motor oil are you using?

What interval do you change the oil?

Did you get any low oil pressure warnings? (Have you seen my post about the anti drain Valve?)

I will post here if I find more information about READ failures.

Happy New Year

Paul

Tx,

I did find this

Quote:

I know several currently employed Volvo techs from a previous job and I buy parts at a large Dallas dealer pretty regularly. I hung out with one of my friends there not long ago and asked him about the 3.2's since they had been around long enough to see some high milers. He said that both 3.2 and T6 motors were starving him. Nothing was really going wrong out of warranty. They had done some bearings on the cam/serpentine belt drive gearbox (the bearings have been changed from tapered to ball in late 2010 production, ball do not require hardly any preload, tapered require a lot of preload) on cars with poor oil change history.

You Tube deleted the videos I posted