My clutch pedal started acting up and not returning to its original position and after a couple of hours it ended up not working at all, stuck all the way in and not giving any resistance at all when pumped

After some searches in here it appears this is a big job that needs the gearbox to be removed so I will also change the clutch and maybe the DMF if needed. 2 months ago the clutch was slipping then appeared to magically fix itself, which I assume is the reason why the slave cylinder was knackered (trying to adjust itself maybe?)

A friend of mine is a sort of mechanic and has a lifter and we decided to do the job together. Is there someone in here who did this job that maybe could give me some pointers on what parts to get or any online procedures we could follow or if any specialist tools are needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will also order all the parts online because I live on an island and everything costs twice as much so any links to parts would be awesome.

Hi

Can't help. but mine's heading down that route I think. Been quoted about £1100 at an Indy garage. ~ 7 hrs labour - gearbox out etc etc. Pedals been sticking for a while, but not got to the stage where it won't return. Mine's a 14 plate and its only done 50000 miles though !

Roltek wrote:

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I believe the sub frame needs dropping to get the gearbox out. Quite a bit of work involved. Freelander 2 HSE TD4 2007

Sorry posted in wrong place, but been quoted £1100 for clutch replacement due to a probably 30 pence seal on Slave cylinder. 7 hour job, so big job !

£1100 for me too from an indy. Big job.

I think you need to be a bit more than a "sort of mechanic" to attempt this one! FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Before you start on this epic job are you absolutely sure that it's not the master cylinder.  3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

My master cylinder was replaced 3000 miles ago and the problem has returned🙁🙁🙁

So if the problem went away when the master cylinder was replaced, it was the master cylinder at fault, yes? Now the problem has returned - why cant it be the master cylinder again ?
Best to check before committing to thousands of pounds of expense. Jules

Bleeding the clutch on master cylinder replacement might have helped the problem going away.

Forgot to add that the garage who replaced my master cylinder said on the bill that the master cylinder replacement was the cheapest option of repair....customer to monitor. I can't believe another master cylinder can play up in such a short time. Oem part was fitted

Gearbox removal isn't the worst job in the world. Quite a bit to take off, and the subframe is a large, cumbersome lump to lift out and back in again

I can turn them around same day, single handedly, albeit, with a 2 post ramp

I trust this busy lr Indy garage where mines going in. They told me what's involved and they are well experienced, unlike the main dealers. Once it's done, it's done. They also said my clutch seems really heavy for a FL2 , and the difference with new bits will be a world apart . However, next car an auto !

dorsetfreelander wrote:

Before you start on this epic job are you absolutely sure that it's not the master cylinder.