Ready for doing and shows how Land Rover have got this so wrong. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Reminder t myself to book in with www.bellengineering.co.uk for a service of the Haldex etc

I had my rear differential bearings changed and since then I have a slipping Haldex sound when I am reversing while turning. This only happens when I start the car and after I run it for a while it doesn't do this anymore.

I had the Haldex oil refilled again according to the proper procedure (I gave them the instructions to follow) - fill, on, refill, drain 70mL but this has not made a difference.

Does anyone have any ideas what may be the issue? In particular why does it go away after running the car for a while?

They haven't examined or changed the Haldex filter but the Haldex oil was clean even before they fixed the differential and replaced the Haldex oil.

Thanks!

This Haldex thing is a right kettle of fish Got my main dealer (who usually want to take your money) saying to leave it alone as its fine .2014 HSE. but are they saying that as its under warranty?

think a trip over to Austin is on the cards as soon as warranty is out. If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

Just an update - regarding the clunking Haldex / failure to disengage after the differential repair.

I got the Haldex taken out, the oil was filthy and the pump and mesh black. Whether it was because I had driven with an incorrect Haldex oil level for a while I am not sure. Changed the oil and the filter and cleaned the pump filter and the pump and now it works normally.

I spent a couple of hours with Austen last week. I’d had a road speed related hum for ages that didn’t go away when tyre sets were changed or alter as the car was driven in in left or right hand curves in an attempt to load the wheel bearings. Austen could hear the hum but thought it was an off side (rhs) wheel bearing.
Anyway, once on the ramp he decided to drop the diff along with the Haldex and have a look, or should I say feel. Even with the Haldex and half shafts separated there was still uncertainty so the diff was disassembled which gave access to the then obviously faulty nose pinion bearing. Not the worst Austen had felt, but worse than was expected from the noise.
A reconditioned diff was fitted, my Haldex serviced and everything reassembled. On the test drive afterwards all was well,no hum from the rear and everything worked as expected.
I can understand if no one else has noticed this, but on the trip back down to Bristol the fuel consumption was lower than on the way up and this has continued over the weekend. Not by a huge amount, but noticeable if you are keeping records as I do.
Thanks to Austen for an interesting couple of hours and a great service. Have a great holiday!

First post on the forum so here goes - I know I should introduce myself in the appropriate section, but I'm lazy

I'm new to Freelander 2's with owning mine only about four months, so after much lurking on here I joined & did much reading about getting your Haldex serviced I thought it would be wise to get mine done as the car has done 95,000 miles with no hint in the service history of the Haldex being touched.

I will point out this was done purely as preventative maintenance as I had no problems or messages in the display.

As I'm only down the road from Austen at Bell eng in Bristol I guessed this would be a wise investment in time & money.

Made an appointment with Austen, so me & me Jack Russell took a drive up to Austen's

What throughly nice professional chap, ready & waiting for me so I left the FL2 with him & took Molly for a walk.

All done in one & half hours - excellent service, Austen confirmed it was a prudent time to get this done as the oil wasn't to bad but the filters were quite clogged.

I cannot recommend this chap highly enough & his services/skills are simply excellent value for money. Well worth a trip if you can.

Thank you Austen it was a pleasure to meet you & your number is stored for future use ( hopefully won't need it) but we are talking Land Rover

A definate asset to the FL2 community this company


Cheers
Brian

I have a bit of a rear end grumble now and I dont want to jump to conclusions strange thing is it goes away after about 15 - 20 miles when things warm up a bit, this is strange as the diff oil would be a bit thinner by then, I topped up the rear tyres (about 2psi down) then it seems less prominent.

Just ordered kit and 5 ltrs 80/90 EP oil, I want to do both the haldex filter and oil + diff oil change (34K mls)
Been reading up and wondered if anyone has used 75/90 synth or semi synth diff oil? I am a big beliver in synth oils and I have Comma 75/90m in the dffs and transfer box of my Defender, but the Freelander seems to be on the edge concernming its rear axle.
If the diff oil comes out free of metal bits then I may drop the mineral oil in 6 months and re fill with the semi synth.
If

Millers oil sent me this a while ago:

Gearbox TRX SYNTH 75W/80 2ltrs, Transferbox TRX SYNTH 75W/90 0.75ltrs, Rear Differential TRX SYNTH 75W/90 0.75ltrs. The front differential is from the Transaxle manual gearbox. Please note do not use the 75w/90 for the gearbox you must use the 75w/80 as you will not be able to select the gears if you use a 75w/90 grade and I know it seems a bit of a inconvenience in having to buy two gear oils but it is down to the design of the gearbox and for fuel economy. Take no notice of the antifoaming BOT oil as all gear oils have anti foam additive otherwise the oils would be all over the place. They try to frighten people into taking the car into the main dealers and pay through the nose for something which they think is special and it is not.
 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Cheers
I suspected that 75/90 semi synth would be good, I think the modern synth oils are much better, and part of the story why modern engines will do huge mileage.
I may still put the mineral oil in for a few months and use it like a clean out.
I also need to think that if I am unlucky and the bearing in the diff has faild then I am in for a much bigger strip and build, If this happens one thing I will do is drill and tap the diff to allow a drain plug, at 0.7 ltrs per fill why not change it at the same time as the engine oil, its overkill but cheap overkill.

Did it today.
Everything was pretty straight forward, but the dam prop shaft bolts were an absolute pig, I need to put some new ones in anyone know the correct part number or a good source for them?

Tried a search on here and tried e bay, found some at Rimmer brothers they were P/N TYG100570 - but no actual application mentioned.

I think these are the prop shaft bolts LR001193

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/bolt-lr001193lr-p-22699.html

and for confirmation

https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rov...ction.html Jules

Thanks for the reply but I think those are longer than the ones coupling the prop shaft to the haldex.
Maybe I can measure them tomorrow.

jules wrote:

I think these are the prop shaft bolts LR001193

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/bolt-lr001193lr-p-22699.html

and for confirmation

https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rov...ction.html

Quick question.
Why does JLR recommend using new prop shaft bolts ? Is it because they come pre-coated with a type of loctite and this would have to be reapplied if the bolts were used again. Or is there another reason ? Jules