Hello.

AC has stopped working. I took it to ATS today as my first port of call as its a 2008 SE model. The guy filled it up with gas but said its still not working so took all the gas back out. He did say there was a bit left in before he filled up. No signs of any leaks. Cant hear it kick in when you turn it on. Now its empty, can anyone recommend what checks I should make to diagnose the fault.

Thanks

Ian

Going to suggest you contact a mobile AC person. The system needs to be fully and properly charged before you can check for faults.

Kwik fit for about £50 remove the oil and gas from the air con. Pressure test then refill with both why did he remove the gas he had put in?

Worst thing he could have done I suspect as you must not split the system and leave it open to the atmosphere for long as it ruins the Foo Foo Valve are whatever they call it. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

It's will cause problems if air is allowed into the system. The fix is to do a deep vacuum for at the very least an hour preferably two then recharge and properly test

Last edited by I Like Chips on 10th Jun 2018 6:32 am. Edited 1 time in total

OK now had time to look up the foo foo valve

Years since I worked on the early stuff but we had a work around in the middle east. Invert the AC gas bottle (a bit like a caravan bottle) hold up high and let it roll in. Topped it up enough to get a car rolling again.

So Mr Land Rover says:


Observe the following precautions when handling components used in the air conditioning system:
Air conditioning units must not be lifted by their hoses, pipes or capillary lines. Hoses and lines must not be subjected to any twist or stress; the efficiency of the system will be impaired by kinks or restrictions. Make sure that hoses are correctly positioned before tightening couplings, and make sure that all clips and supports are utilised. Flexible hoses should not be positioned closer than 100 mm (4.0 in) to the exhaust manifold unless protected by heat shielding. Completed assemblies must be checked for refrigeration lines touching metal panels. Any direct contact of components and panels may transmit noise and so must be eliminated. The appropriate torque wrench must be used when tightening refrigerant connections to the stipulated value. An additional spanner must be used to hold the union to prevent twisting of the pipe when tightening connections. Before connecting any hose or pipe, make sure that refrigerant oil is applied to the seat of the new O-rings, BUT NOT to the threads of the connection. All protective plugs or caps must remain in place in the component until immediately prior to connection. Make sure components are at room temperature before uncapping/unplugging, to prevent condensation of moisture from the air that enters it. When disconnecting, immediately plug or cap all air conditioning pipes to prevent ingress of dirt and moisture into the system. Components must not remain uncapped/unplugged, if a system has been left uncapped/unplugged for 20 minutes or longer, a new receiver/drier must be installed. The receiver/drier contains desiccant which absorbs moisture. It must be positively sealed at all times. A receiver/drier that has been left uncapped for longer than 20 minutes must not be used; install a new unit. The receiver/drier should be the last component connected to the system to make sure optimum dehydration and maximum moisture protection of the system. Whenever a component of the refrigeration system is replaced, it will also be necessary to install a new receiver/drier unit. Use alcohol and a clean lint-free cloth to clean dirty connections. Make sure that all new parts installed are marked for use with R134a. When a major repair has been completed, a leak test should be conducted; FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

My AC developed an intermittent fault earlier this year. It worked when starting the engine from cold, but wouldn’t kick in when starting from hot after sitting in heat soak Aussie summer conditions. I checked the gas and was only 10g under spec (original gas from factory 10yrs ago - driven with AC always on).

I could see that the clutch wasn’t engaging - turned out to be the wiring connector at the AC compressor end. Just needed a clean (I used MAF cleaner spray) and has worked consistently since then. FL2 - MY08 TD4 SE Auto
DS - MY17 TD4 150 SE Auto