Hi guys.. hoping for some advice from the knowledgable

Long story short, i did an oil change recently, all went to plan, used 5w 30 synthetic oil.
Now after after driving the car for about 5 minutes the dreaded oil light comes on. I’ve taken it to two garages and neither can help. The most helpful answer was I used the wrong oil (which I hadn’t) or that the oil sensor is faulty

I’m thinking my best option is to check oil pressure but can’t find a definitive guide as to where to screw in the oil pressure testing gauge, can someone help with this and also where the oil pressure sensor is as I might have a go at changing it myself as it doesn’t look difficult

Thanks in advance folks

I'm sure this has been on here before and it turned out to be the filter.

I put a new filter in at the same time and pretty sure it’s the correct one

maybe the filter housing has not been snugged in correctly. That bastard is tough to get in and out. The thread goes on forever. I'm not sure where the pressure is measured from either


g

Ill loosen and try and reseat the filter housing.. thanks

Had the oil pressure warning light come on while driving my Td5 Disco. Pulled in and parked it up, Not wanting to risk engine damage called RAC. Took them hours to come out and while waiting had a poke about the engine bay, to find wire from oil pressure switch broken just as the recovery truck arrived!
Drove it home, fixed wire, sorted  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Thanks Bob... where is the oil pressure switch ?

#17, looks like it is just next to the oil filter

I’m thinking my engine layout is a bit different to that pic as the oil filter is vertically mounted quite deep in the engine bay, typical bloody Land Rover. I might have to relive the inlet manifold to get to anything down there
It’s a 3.2 l petrol V 6

Don’t know about the V6 but on the diesel, the fan assembly can (relatively!) easily be removed which gives a lot more space to access the oil filter etc. It is only held in by a couple of clips and the wiring. I would imagine they might have followed a similar line with the 3.2 petrol. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

I think he manifold itself is easy to remove, don’t know if it needs a gasket on reinstall though
I’ve got a mobile mechanic coming tomorrow....

Sorry mate, I was assuming it was the 2.2

g

Thanks for the help grod, I should have said in the original post
I’ll let you know what the mechanic says

There is no oil pressure switch on your engine.
Quote from the manual:

There is no oil pressure switch on the engine therefore low pressure is calculated by the ECM using the following data:
• High oil temperature >110°C.
• High holding current on the VCT actuator (>590mA).
If both of these conditions are fulfilled and the engine speed is <2900 rpm a message is then sent to the instrument pack which then illuminates the oil pressure warning lamp in the event of oil pressure failure.