No snow

ok sun is out and I squeezed my arse under the car.
There is a bit of chaffing on the wires to the haldex but not enough to break through and short it out.
the plugs were clean and dry but I gave them a wd40 to be sure.
one thing I did notice and maybe its supposed to be like that was the prop shaft had quite a bit of back and forth play in it, I have a 7 mb vid of it in the link below if that's allowed to show what I mean.
otherwise im going to have to get the ramps out.
the traction/transmission fault is on permanent now as soon as I start the car. im going to fill up with fuel and do tyre pressures to see if that eliminated the problem like last time.
will report back shortly.


ok fuel in and tyres done and problem still exists.
will order oil and filter from bell engineering next week and service the haldex

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-_O1t5wF_...sp=sharing

Worms wrote:

Trev, have you tried simply cleaning the electrical connection to the Haldex? That would still mean getting under the car, but it might be worth a shot before going the whole hog and removing the Haldex.

I see a lot of people asking different questions on the best methods on how to do the haldex and do they take it off and how to etc.
I have done some looking about on YouTube and found a few links showing removal of the prop and haldex as well as cleaning. I though they may come in handy for some although I've not done mine yet.
Please bear in mind these are not done on the Freelander but more the Volvo but they use the same haldex gen4.
I don't know if admin could maybe put them as a sticky??












the last one shows a complete removal from prop to haldex, sorry these all seem to be in reverse order

I have the dreaded Transmission Fault issue too on my '56 FL2 HSE so I'm all ears on this topic.

That play on the prop shaft doesnt look right but I'm no expert 2018 - 2007 '56 manual HSE Freelander 2

ok I got a friend from Volvo to order me the oil and parts cost me £50 all in.

a brief run down on what I did.

1. I put landie on ramps and then jacked and supported the front up
2. I started by taking off the brackets holding the middle of the prop shaft letting it hang.
3. removed the bolts holding on prop shaft to haldex unit. by letting the middle of the propshaft hang this gave me room to pull the prop away from the haldex.
4. I opened the fill plug and using a syringe and tube took out as much oil as possible. ( it was thick and gloopy).
5. I undone the 4 haldex retaining bolts and with a few heavy taps of a rubber mallet, I wriggled the haldex out.
6. I undone and removed the haldex ecu. (note it looked clean and dry from the outside but was slightly corroded in the inside. I cleaned with brass brush and redone a few solder points that looked bad.
7. I removed the haldex pump and let the remaining oil out. the filter was clogged up.
( note) I did not have to remove the propshaft retaining bolt. the pump with a little wriggle came out on its own.
8. I removed the oilfilter and cover, this was the worst for crude.
9. I individually put all parts in a bucket of paraffin and gave them a clean, then air hose dried them.
I did not take the clutch plates apart!.
10. replaced filter and new cover.
11 refit was reversal of removal.
12 filled up oil til it flowed out and tightened nut up. took for a 5 min drive.
13. checked level and refilled til spilling out and then removed 70ml of oil and refitted plug.
I never torqued anything down and just made sure things were tight enough to hold proper.
the movement in the propshaft according to vovlo is correct. its a anti dampening feature.
Now this is how I done it and it took me almost a day to do.
I was doing it on the ground with ramps and axle stands and would deffo recommend any diy mechanic having a go and saving a few ££.
I also added a little grease to the electrical connections before putting the plugs back on the ecu. I think im going to spray a duckoil underseal on the unit as well to protect it.
sorry no photos as I smashed my phone as I started the job

Well done. My own attempt.

Look at it on my cold wet drive and decided this course of remedial action.

Drive to Bell.

Go to pub

Go for excellent curry

Go back to pub, drink some more and sleep there

Have cooked breakfast.

Find Bell again, give Austen at Bell some money that seemed quite fair.

Moral being life is not always about saving a few quid when good beers and curry is in the equation.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

LOL. my local stealer never heard of doing the haldex. strange as it seems a common fault, they just replace them.
I would have loved nothing better but to go to bell and get Austin to do it but not worth the several hundred mile drive for me im afraid.
Its done and dusted, now on to find another job to fix.

buy and Fit towbar
refit rear parking sensors.
find wire and fix rear side window heaters,
refit dashcam
strip brakes/discs, clean and refit
underseal whole landie
redo all tints, stupid last owner had dog and all scratched.
re fit roof lining properly
source and fit all new rear panels
try and source electric seats and retrofit
try and source and retrofit satnav.
Any more suggestions or upgrades?? if I haven't got enough to do lol

Hi Trev, with regards to the rear side windows, what you see as possible heater lines are in fact the radio aerial wires, they are not heated for demisting purposes. If your radio is picking up stations then the wires are working OK. Could be one job you can tick off your list already

hi dennij
both rear side windows have heater elements in them, and both have like a snap on connector at the top. one side is connected and the other side is not. since the previous owner has had the roof lining off I presume he has forgotten to refit the connector.
I had the lining pulled back a bit but cannot see the wire so goodness knows where it is.
ive not had the windows condensate up and never had to use the rear heater so not sure if the one that's connected even works. I might just run a wire from one to the other.

ah edit. I didn't read your reply fully. I see radio wires not heating elements

Yes they look like heating elements but in fact that are the radio aerials, one for analogue and one for DAB if I remember, you'll probably find that the one not connected is the DAB one

I changed my Haldex oil and filters the other week. Cleaned the pump filter too. A few pictures here at the bottom of this page. http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16714-150.html

I did this a preventative maintenance at 45k though so no problems before and hopefully no problems in the next 45k Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

The DAB would be the left hand window if fitted

MAGIC THANKS. deffo saves me a job to do..
right side is connected and left isn't.

I had the haldex job to do like you say as a preventative measure but the fault forced me to get it done before I planned to do it.
I have a feeling the ecu was the fault although the gunked oil in the unit did not help.
going to tackle the throttle body next I think as it squeals like a pic . think the cogs inside have worn down

Steve D wrote:

I changed my Haldex oil and filters the other week. Cleaned the pump filter too. A few pictures here at the bottom of this page. http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16714-150.html

I did this a preventative maintenance at 45k though so no problems before and hopefully no problems in the next 45k

When the Haldex is serviced at a dealers they also do a software update so by doing your own you miss this - do Bell do the update?