Have a Freelander 2 2013 HSE (2.0 petrol i guess its the ecoboost) that has poor acceleration (0-100 kmh in 16 secs), low top speed (around 145 kmh) and generally feel sluggish. 60k kms

Beyond that, no symptoms like black smoke, engine performance warnings on the dashboard, engine noise or anything else. What could it be? These are my thoughts:

1) Something with fuel supply: Unlikely, because there is no juttling or poor starting or anything else

2) Some problem with air supply such as leak in the hoses: Could be but would expect some smoke and whisling

3) Turbo malfunctioning: Could be but strange at 60000 km and also no noises

4) MAP sensor malfunctioning: This is what I would believe it is

Any thoughts?

Your car has a sophisticated self diagnostic system, instead of guessing what/if problem/s is/are plug it into
the Land Rover diagnostics and it will tell you where to look.
It’s the most logical and time saving route to take. MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System
InControl Apps soon to be replaced with CarPlay (WIP)
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (BSM)
Reverse Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA)
Electrochromatic Wing Mirrors (WIP)

Better find out first what engine you have ! FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

It is an ecoboost 2.0

Change the dirty air filter. Give it a good hiding down the road and blow clear the cat. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

UPDATE:

So it turns out it’s the turbo. P0299 error code and no boost. Confirmed by 2 mechanics (a third, the official Land Rover dealership didn’t detect anything )

3 questions:

I would have thought this would require turbo replacement but a local turbo specialist who diagnosed the fault says it’s possible to replace the “cartridge” (the piece that holds the turbine) and also if needed the exhaust valve. Both obviously much cheaper than turbo replacement but is it feasible with repair and maintenance rather than replacing the turbo?

Where would you source parts or turbo?

How many man hours does it take to remove and install the turbo? I understand the chasis needs to be separated and hence will require a lot of ma hours? 20?

Thanks

You are sure it is the turbo that has failed as there are a heap of other reasons which could result in no boost aside a dead turbo.

Hi

No, not sure.

The mechanics are not certain either but since they checked for leaks and air filters I suppose they are narrowing in on turbo issue but they say the turbo might not be dead as such. That said they haven’t said turbo replacement is needed they want to take the car in on Monday to start working on it


What other reasons could it be and how would you diagnose?

So far my observations are:
- poor/no acceleration (0-100 in 16 secs), no feel of power, poor top speed (130-140 km/h)
- no warning in the dashboard
- no leaks
- no dirty air filter (its almost new)
- no weird sounds from engine turbo or hoses
- poor fuel economy (13,5 liter per 100 km)
- no excessive oil consumption
- no smoke
- vacuum in one of the hoses (not sure which one but both mechanics grapped the same hose that’s somewhere around the intercooler (I think)
- no problem starting or running the engine also good idle
- p0299 error code but nothing else

As T4 says all the code p0299 says is lack of turbo pressure, it may not be a faulty turbo.

The article below seems to think that for the Ford Ecoboost Engine the waste gate is a good place to look for problems.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0299 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks

Was also what one of the mechanics identified as possible cause but he says it cannot be validated without removing the turbo or at least accessing it?

By the way, is EGR valve and wastegate the same thing?

Not as such although I guess they could be linked insofar as they control the direction of the exhaust gasses.

The waste gate directs the exhaust gas either through the turbo or direct into the exhaust bypassing the turbo. It is mainly to relieve the pressure of the exhaust gasses as the engine revs rise. Without, at high revs, the turbo could spin itself into oblivion, blow your head gasket, or shatter rods - I've seen it happen when people get carried away with boost.

If the waste gate is stuck open all the exhaust can go directly into the exhaust pipe without pressurising the turbo. You wouldn't get any unusual noises, just no boost.

The waste gate is controlled by valve. This could be a mechanical bleed valve but, I assume in the Freelander, would be electronically controlled by the ECU. Again, this wouldn't make any odd noises necessarily.

So already two things which might have an issue.

If the turbo was damaged I would expect some boost and some odd noises.

If the engine is MAP controlled and not MAF, you won't get smoke as the ECU will only fuell as appropriate to the manifold pressure. MAP will also cover up any leaks in the induction, but you might hear these.

I

Indie has the turbo out...

In spanish: "El multiple esta fracturado". No idea what that means in English but direct translation is "fractured multiple". He sent me pictures and seems like the metal is broken somewhere. Will try to attach photos (edit: they are in the gallery now hope they are visible)

What does the defect mean and how should it be fixed? New turbo or can it be welded?

It is indeed fracturado. Well and truly fracturadoed.

I wouldn't have believed that without seeing the pictures, but then I am not sure which surprises me more, the failure or the design overall.

Having seen turbo manifolds glowing red hot (not on a Freelander) I wouldn't like to comment on the effectiveness of a weld.

The installations I have experience glowing red hot (and more) are welded manifolds but they are a much more extended so allow for the expansion and contraction experienced with such situations.

My surprise over this design is there is no provision for expansion which is perhaps why it has failed in the first place?

Is it worth welding? I guess that is really down to how much it costs to get the Turbo in and out compared to a new Turbo. If it is a relatively cheap job it may well be worth the risk.

Thanks for the reply.

I will change the turbo. The indie is solid, I can get a new one for around 2000 USD including shipment and import. Rather that than having the same headache down the road and risking further damage to the engine if something breaks off.

With a new turbo I hopefully extend the life of the car too.

Sorry to hear of the problem you're having with a relatively new car. I have read that Ford engineers estimate the life of the ecoboost turbo as 250,000+ kms. As a matter of interest how many kms has your done?

The repair costs are not small either. Where did you source the new turbo from? The engine is the same as the Ford Mondeo so maybe UK or mainland Europe is a good place to find one?

I'm interested as one of only a few Si4 owners on here. Good luck in getting it sorted. driving on the right side