hi guys. my fl2 mods I have planned are on the back burner for the moment.
I have the dreaded Fault Traction reduced' fault show up nearly every time im out in the beast.
done a bit of research and a lot say a new haldex is required, and others say the oil pressure sensor or even a oil and filter change will do.
I have a 2010 2.2td gs I guess a gen 4 haldex
I had it diagnosed 6 month ago as the sensor and the fault was cleared until now.
im going to take the cheapest route to see if I can fix it. so oil filter and atf then sensor first.
im new to the f/l so can anyone help with what oil to buy, and parts numbers for filter and oil sensor? as well as prices. my local dealer is near £100 per hr to diagnose and labour so if I can get some decent weather I would rather try do it myself and see if it cures it.
P.s is there anything I can use to flush the diff out with to clear any remaining gunk also.
thanks

Fit a new battery if original and check you have the extra earth lead first.

All the info is on here re doing Haldex filters etc. I have given Volvo part numbers to save a few pence but the easiest way is order what you need from Bell Engineering and Austen at Bell has posted on here how to remove etc.

It’s not a 5 minute in your drive job.

Diff or Diff Oil has nothin to do with Haldex so that tells me you need to think long and hard and do a lot of pondering. Anyone a days returning drive will generally be better off visiting Bell to have it done once you know the battery is not the issue. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I once worked with a mechanic who always turned his Series LR diff over filled with paraffin as part of his diff oil change service regime. Never tried it myself, but it didn’t seem to have caused him any problems. Modern diff seals may be less accommodating, though! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

HI. I have just bought another battery from LR costing £224 so that's not the issue thankfully.
where would I find if an additional earth has been fitted? pics of location so I can check?
I know the diff and diff oil is different, im planning on changing all oils inc diff, sorry if it sounded like I was going to put diff oul in haldex lol.
bell engineering is way down south, so getting him to do the job isn't a option although I wish it was. but I do see I can get the service kit from him for £78 so I will be doing that.
ive been doing mechanics on and off all my life so I know how tricky things can be and the stuff ive done on my drive shouldn't have been possible but ive no option, thankfully I can afford the landie to be off the road for a day or 2.

Yorky Bob wrote:

Fit a new battery if original and check you have the extra earth lead first.
I do remember when the garage diagnosed the pressure sensor there was a mention of a bad earth so if I can find and remedy that first that would be a great help. thanks


ive found the post for the battery earth, will check mine shortly.


All the info is on here re doing Haldex filters etc. I have given Volvo part numbers to save a few pence but the easiest way is order what you need from Bell Engineering and Austen at Bell has posted on here how to remove etc.

It’s not a 5 minute in your drive job.

Diff or Diff Oil has nothin to do with Haldex so that tells me you need to think long and hard and do a lot of pondering. Anyone a days returning drive will generally be better off visiting Bell to have it done once you know the battery is not the issue.

ive been doing mechanics on and off all my life so I know how tricky things can be and the stuff ive done on my drive shouldn't have been possible but ive no option, thankfully I can afford the landie to be off the road for a day or 2. [quote="Yorky Bob"]Fit a new battery if original and check you have the extra earth lead first.
I do remember when the garage diagnosed the pressure sensor there was a mention of a bad earth so if I can find and remedy that first that would be a great help. thanks

ok found the earth strap link so will check the car later, doing the haldex filter and oil looks fairly easy even without removing the drive shaft but it will need to wait for a free and sunny day

Be aware there is a serviceable mesh filter on the pump that gets blocked with sludge. Thats why its best / Easiest to drop the whole unit out. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

yes I see that on the YouTube videos. im fairly confident I can still access it from my drive with the car on ramps.
I don't really want to remove the whole lot from the car if it can get done on the ground and I don't mind doing it over a few days either. when I do I will try video it/picture it to post here and maybe someone can get some use from it.
at the moment the weather is so cold and damp doing that is not really a option just now so im hoping that fitting a new earth lead will solve the issue until the better weather comes in.
I did notice that their is a earth lead from the battery to the inner wing but not looked to see if one at the starter yet.
the new battery has got my stop/start working again so that's a bonus although I usually switch it off with the eco button.

I lost my one shot windows going up when I last disconnected my new battery to fit a part, would not re-set. Worked out of the blue today  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

damn it, just had a quick look and the battery has a earth tied to the starter motor installed. so I can rule that out for the transmission fault. looks like I will have to go with the haldex oil change and filter sooner rather than later

I had the fault at about 100K Kms. it would appear shortly after starting and lasted about 1 week then I haven't seen it since. I did take it to a local indi who said it would either cost me $1000 for the cheap fix (just haldex unit I assumed) or $5K for a whole new diff. I'm lucky I took a while to think about ordering the more exe option and it seemed to sort itself.

I was wondering if it was a sensor issue as it was very wet just before it showed up, and given that it just went away a week later...who knows.

Anyway the car is just over 170 000kms and havent seen the error message again (touching wood) but I am going to do all the oils very soon which will include the Haldex oil and 2 filters.

Best of luck with yours and look forward to seeing your progress

G

MY11 TD4

mines has 69k miles and started getting the transmission fault when it was wet outside. in the dry weather I wouldn't see the fault for weeks. then I ran low on fuel, 40miles left and it came back on, after filling up the fault disappeared. hmm strange, I though poss some sort of levelling sensor issue, but as it is my first landi im not clued up on them. I refuse to put in into indi to get fixed and will do the repairs my self. my thoughts in order were earth strap first but its already there, secondly im going to remove the haldex unit completely after reading up posts on here and give it a good clean inc filters and fresh oil. I will check wiring and haldex ecu for moisture/corrosion. then the oil pressure sensor if none of them work, if they all fail after that I have no idea apart from a new pump and or haldex. I will of course take pics and or vid of my repairs for here and hope it can help others. the only problem I have at the moment is the weather lol.

currently 38C here so I hear you about the weather.

g

Trev, have you tried simply cleaning the electrical connection to the Haldex? That would still mean getting under the car, but it might be worth a shot before going the whole hog and removing the Haldex. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

lol yeah im going to do that first. but as part of a service im going to do the haldex oil and filter anyway. looking on the posts here it looks better to completely remove the haldex on order to wash all the gunk out.
I would love it if it was just a bad connection. I noticed yesterday and this morning as soon as I switch the car on I get the transmission reduced fault immediately instead of a few mins down the road so I might bite the biscuit so to speak and get under and have a look today, although it is only 1 degree outside so will freeze my arse off lol