Hi Everyone, I have a fFR2 GS with a rear wiper that is not working. I have taken it off and seem to be getting voltage to it and have opened it up and it looks very clean ( not full of rust etc ). I was wondering if it is the shaft to the actual wiper that has seized? can I take shaft out and if so, how do I do that. Also, should I be able to move the wiper by hand ( I can't so was wondering if it has seized ). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Yes. Once you have the case apart, just pull the metal part towards you and it should come out. Might be worth marking the plastic cog where it meets the plastic screw on the motor drive shaft first, to make putting it back together easier. There is a rubber grommet which sits in a slight groove in the shaft and can easily get lost when you pull the shaft out. It helps stop water ingress. I’ve replaced mine with a rubber a/c o ring, but it is not quite the right size.

I’ve had mine apart twice, but next time I am going to take a Dremel to the shaft and grind off the corrosion as I suspect that it is the shaft that is sticking - the rest of it seems fine.

There is a thread on here with good pics, or perhaps it was a link to a YouTube video? Try this one: http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic5685.html?highlight=rear+wiper 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

thanks worms. Ive had it apart and to be honest, there is no corrosion, nothing. It looks new. I seem to be getting power though. Can't understand why wiper isn't working. Don't suppose you would know how to test the relay?

Sorry, no idea about the relay - I’ve yet to find any link to the location of all the relays and still need to track down my front fog light relay (i know it’s in the passenger footwell as I can hear it click, but delving in there can wait for warmer weather!).

Have you tried connecting the motor directly to a 12v supply to find if it works? I would think a failed motor might be more common than a failed relay? Although I would also have thought that there would be visible damage to the teeth on the plastic gear cogs if it had jammed and caused the motor to fail.

EDIT: if you have managed to locate the relay, you could test it by swapping it over with another similar relay from another component. However, there are those on here who warn that the ECUs don’t like you doing this and error codes may ensue. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

You could do with someone with a Freelander near you so could try a different unit that you know works.

Yes that would be ideal. I have tested with driect 12v and nothing so I'm thinking it is knackered. Strange how clean it is nside, oh well not to worry. Now started with the deaded droaning at rear. Me thinks possible diff. I have seen somw chassis ears which look really good but only sell in america and seems a bit daft spending over two hundred pounds on something to tell me there is a problem with the diff.

The shaft corrodes inside the bush inside the shaft housing. I cleaned mine up and reassembled with plenty of grease but it seized again about 6 months later. So I gave up and bought a whole new motor assembly for £78 off eBay. Although it looks like the price has gone up since then. MY13 Santorini Black SD4 HSE