I see that this thread is old, but thanks for this usefull thread!!
I did mine yesterday as mine got hard to start below -5C. 3 of 4 glow plugs was dead! I had to let the car stand for two extra days as I had to order new inlet manifold seals from the local Peugeot dealer (Peugeot part no 0348T2). The old seals was hard and deformed after 10 years and 200000km`s. There was clears signs that they where leaking too. So, its essential to get these prior to startup of this job.

How would one test a glow plug ? 2008 xs
Snorkel
raised axle/gearbox breathers
Mantec tank guard
Cb radio
Blanked EGR
Sump guard
Scratches
Snolkle

measure its resistance, they fail open circuit. But you need to remove it first I think.

Thank you 😊 2008 xs
Snorkel
raised axle/gearbox breathers
Mantec tank guard
Cb radio
Blanked EGR
Sump guard
Scratches
Snolkle

testing glow plugs
check the resistance with an ohm meter to see if its gone open circuit.
More importantly then use a heavy duty cable and put 12 volt supply from a car battery to the glow plug.
Heat up should be almost instant and it should glow red on the tip.
Cheaper or older plugs may glow further down the shaft rather than the tip.

Do not hold the glow plug or pick it up untill its cooled down.

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?...sBnIrT7_NQ

Remember that even water contamination in the fuel can burn the tip of an injector or glow plug. Just a tiny amount.
The easiest way of explaining how the wter causes so much damage (apart from corrosion and lack of lubrication ) when a candle is burning drip one drop of water onto the wick and it will spit and fire.
This is what happens when water passes through an injector if it gets past the water trap and filter. It flares up combustion and melts the tips Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Finally got around to doing mine. This guide was a great help, but I am amazed at how difficult changing service items is. Took me about 7 hours in total including losing a bolt for a while, but some of the fixings (the EGR pipe at the rear of the engine in particular) are a real pain to get at. All of my plugs were open circuit at 120,000 miles.

I also tried the method of removing them with the intake in place, but a word of warning.....I managed to pull end right off one of the plug connectors and broke it so had to get the whole lot off and put a second hand harness in. If you are trying the in situ method, then only pull from below the whole cap, and not just the top part!

Just wonder if anyone’s had any problems removing the glow plugs or do they tend to come out easy?. I’m planning on replacing mine in the coming weeks and I’m not quite sure what to expect!

All of mine came out easy enough having not been touched from new at 120,000 and 10 years, no seizing or anything. I purchased a rack of deep 1/4 inch sockets at Halfords for a tenner, and had to drill very slightly into the 8mm socket with an 8mm drill to allow the head of the glowplug to fit in. I already had a 1/4 inch socket set and the long extension on this seemed a good slim way to get in if you're going to try without removing the intake manifold as with a touch of blu tack it would hold the glowplug straight and secure, but beware breaking the plug caps while trying to pull them off as I did.

If you are going to take everything off, as I ended up doing, then access is easy and a ring spanner would do I guess. Some of the bolts on the Fuel filter mount, and the EGR pipe are a real PITA though and a I found a 3/8 socket set to be most appropriate as there is not much room.

Good luck, leave a whole day, and try and keep your patience with some of the fittings!

While the fuel filter is off it may be worth a look at the condition of the blue wire from the rear of the alternator to the loom, as many, including mine, seem to wear through on exiting the loom, eventually leading to an alternator warning light.

Test glow plugs in place with an ohm meter. One probe on plug electrical tip, other to engine block. Resistance should be very small, less than 5 ohms depending on vehicle but normally about 2-3 ohms. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Can you get into the glow plug circuit and test each one individually ,just to see if you get a balanced reading .ie all the same value.thats with them in place ? If one stands out track it down and replace it .
Bob

With all the hassle of getting to the glowplugs, don't replace just the one but do all four. 11 GS Bali Blue
07 GS FL2. Usually muddy. Gone
Numerous LRs since 1963

As above FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

exmilade wrote:

The final, and for me the bit that really wound me up, is a tool for handling the large spring clip around the large plastic pipe that takes air from the air filter box, across the top of the engine to disappear down the left hand side to the turbo. In the picture below, you'll see it on the left of the jubilee clip. I ended up temporarily using a jubilee clip until I can find the correct tool to manipulate the spring clip back on.



To be continued......

Just tackled this. Couldn't have done it without tutorial. Lost 3 screws down back of engine never to be seen again. All intake flaps in place and was hoping to remove them but the manifold seems to be welded or glued together so left as was. All 4 glow plugs had failed 3 totally open circuit 1 @1500 ohms. Replaced OK. However I was left with a green connector with blue markings that comes out of the loom at the dipstick. Had to remove throttle body again as this wire cannot be connected to air sensor when the unit is fitted in place!
 Silver 2009 HSE

Just doing this today as went out this morning to move my Freelander 2 to allow my brothers P38 (which refused to even turn over!) to get to it's "For Sale" position and it wouldn't start...already got the glow plugs as had seen that it's an issue and it has taken three hours to strip down...but it has been minus 3 here. I shall hopefully rebuild it tomorrow. In the meantime I have the terrible hassle of using the Range Rover.

Fabulous thread, really helpful thank you both for words and pictures.

I shall be doing the rear diff next.