Hi

The front fogs on my 2011 SD4 HSE have both given up the ghost. Fuse is fine so I am thinking of changing the relay (R130). Will my engine management system or anything else go mad?? Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks in advance

Have you taken out one of the fog lights and put power through it ? First basic test IMHO. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hi Bob

My thinking is that it is highly unlikely that both lamp units will have failed at exactly the same time, as the relay is the point a which the two sides join and power is supplied from a common busbar with a good fuse replacing a cheap relay would be the next simplest thing. having said that you make a good point and I will give it a go.

Besides all of that I have read/heard that the ECU goes wibble if you change a fuse, do you know if that is right?

Old thread, but wondering if the OP managed to find the fault on this?

My front fogs still won’t work. Bulbs are good, fuse is good, relay seems good (clicks appropriately and shows on or off with scan tool), switch works and shows on dash. I’m reluctant to believe there is a wiring loom defect after the relay. I can’t find any fog specific settings in the CCF that might be switched to off. Does anyone know of a way to test if there is a fault in the signal from main beam/dipped beam to the fog relay? I presume there must be “something clever” that controls the fogs that relies on the position of the main/dipped switch, as I think they should only work on dipped beam? It may of course be a simple wiring loom problem, but I am more inclined to think that the “something clever” will have thrown a wobbly than the basic hard wiring. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Are you actually getting power to the lampholders? If the relay is clicking then it just proves that the internal coil is OK, it might have burnt contacts internally. I would swap the relay then if OK and fuses OK I would suspect a wiring fault downstream. You might have to wip the front off (30 min job) or wheel arch covers to get in .

For info this is what my front bumper was like inside. There is a connector from the passenger side which feeds both fog lamps which is visible by the front wheel in the last image. The loom carries the feed across the inside of the bumper to the driver side fog lamp This was a 2011 facelift model.

PS for those of you who think that FL2 has a two tone horn I could only find one of them

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Thanks, the photos are really helpful (assuming that the 2011 facelift model retained the same basic wiring layout as my 2010 MY). I’ll try swapping over the relay and also read the voltage at the lamp when I get a chance in daylight (not much of that around at the moment!). Am I correct in thinking there should be 12v continuously at the lamp when the ignition is on and that the relay switches a resistor in/out to control the path of the current? 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

No resistors involved, the relay is just a switch that is activated by a current through a coil inside the relay casing. Usually relays draw a small current from the control source and then activate a switch to control a larger current to a load like a motor or a bulb or something. You should see 12v at the bulb holder when the foglamps should be on or nothing if switched off. No inbetweens. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Thanks, that makes sense. The reason for my confusion is that my previous car was a Volvo and it had a common fault where there was 12v at the headlight but bulbs not working, which was diagnostic of a relay failure on the CEM. The 12v continuous at the bulb was normal and the relay switched in a short circuit to reduce power consumption during start-up. I was thinking that the FL fogs might be similar and be continuous power, switched out by on/off switch and high/low beam stalk. Logically, of course, one would design it to switch power in rather than off! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

There are two ways of driving the bulb, you either feed it with 12v continuous and switch the earth on and off with the relay or fix the earth and switch the 12v. Either way you should measure what is happening across the actual bulb socket. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE