Today in the dry I replaced the oil in the Transfer box(so called)
a bit awkward to remove the old oil due to location and the Units design.
you need to bend the oil removal tube approx 80 degress towards the floor and laying on your front push the tube in gentley
using the Lidl oil transfer pump I managed to get out approx 570ml
the oil was fairly dark similar to Coke, the new LR oil was very light in comparision.
I refilled till it leaked from fill hole
then removed exactly 120ml.
took car for a run.
refilled till it leaked then drew off 120ml again.
as it happened no more was required.


There is no need to remove sump guard to do this work it just allows ease of access to put a rag nearer the unit to catch any spill
I used Syringes from Mole Valley farmers to re fill and remove the 120ml
which were Ideal as they are 60ml units.

I am planning to change the fluids in Power Transfer Unit and Rear Diff of my 2013 SD4

There is loads of information on this site, but I am slightly unsure about what the correct filling levels are as some of the information seems to be contradictory

Rear Differential
Fill and level bolt are the same, so fill till fluid runs out.

Power Transfer Unit. I have so far seen 3 alternatives
1) Fill and level bolt are the same, so fill till fluid runs out.
2) Fill and level bolt are the same, so fill till fluid runs out and then remove 100 ml
3) Fill and level bolt are the same, so fill till fluid runs out and then remove 120 ml

Can anyone confirm or otherwise which of these is correct and also what the source of the information is

Many thanks

Steve

Rear Differential
Fill and level bolt are the same, so fill till fluid runs out. CORRECT

Power Transfer Unit. I have so far seen 3 alternatives
1) Fill and level bolt are the same, so fill till fluid runs out.
3) Fill and level bolt are the same, so fill till fluid runs out and then remove 120 ml THIS IS WHAT I DID.

FROM HERE:http://www.freel2.com/forum/post100292.html#100292
Remember to get new fill plug washers too.

The Hokey Cokey way

You put some in ..............You take some out

It strikes me as a rather an odd way of specifying correct amounts of oil.

It would make better sense to have put the filler/drain plug at the correct level in the first place.

Same withe Haldex - you do the Hokey Cokey with that too Jules

The real question is why is this necessary? I have never had to worry about replacing diff and gearbox oils in the past 40 years on my cars and modern engineering should surely make it even less likely so what's going on? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

well after 36k the Haldex pump filter looked like this :




the other oils were quite dark compared to the New ones.

all about Mntnce I guess fresh oil removal of contaminents,
ideally it should all last longer.

dorsetfreelander wrote:

The real question is why is this necessary? I have never had to worry about replacing diff and gearbox oils in the past 40 years on my cars and modern engineering should surely make it even less likely so what's going on?

The way I see it, is that manufacturers quote unrealistically long service intervals in order to reduce servicing costs, mainly to appeal to leasing and company car users. They don't care what happens to the car after 125k or so miles. I intend to keep mine for another 5 years ish so I do care

there have been some well documented problems explored on this forum already which can to some extent be put down to the extended service intervals and "sealed for life" components.

Steve

dorsetfreelander wrote:

The real question is why is this necessary? I have never had to worry about replacing diff and gearbox oils in the past 40 years on my cars and modern engineering should surely make it even less likely so what's going on?

Volvo/Ford/Audi all recommend Haldex is serviced
only LR do "wait till it breaks " servicing