Yorky Bob wrote:

Will update the ramps issue after I see how they treat me over the next few days as they have been returned for a credit and discussion over the now damaged lower wing finisher (£33.80p). The ramps were new and rated at 2.5 tonnes.

question regarding removing 70Ml of OIl
I was watching this:


He quotes removing 40ml of Oil
he has removed and Cleaned Pump in Video.

is there a definative answer? so I can ensure I have enough Oil to re fill

Thanks all
PS I have read/looked and searched but cannot find an answer that shows 40ml removal other than the Video
which is the same Haldex Gen 4 as I have.

Last edited by V40TC on 3rd Nov 2017 4:00 pm. Edited 2 times in total

.Comment removed

outch! Pre-Production "000" Td4 FL2 in Santorini Black on Jet Black and Blue...

I found that video very informative, he also does some other good videos .

Same here! we had all fluids replaced on the 2007 and wanted to get this done, but were told it was not possible then.  Pre-Production "000" Td4 FL2 in Santorini Black on Jet Black and Blue...

Kinda put me off - without a full ramp it's a bit of a by the look of it, but a very useful video if tempted.

Is it this far forward on the FL2 ? I thought it was nearer the back.

the Diff Flange is nearer and bigger on the FL2
I did this Job 2weeks ago and it was a Royal PITA
I would not do it again
I would go to Bell Engineering
awkward, time consuming Pig of a job.

Jacked mine up 18 months ago, crawled under and said FTFAGOS. Went down to see Austen at Bell for a quiet life. Got to say that having overnight-ed locally the beer and curry made it all the better.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Being really good at DIY is knowing when to say no !

Three thoughts are coming to my mind:-

1) Some users report minimal dirt/sludge/oil degradation - presumably because it is very dependent on usage (ie lots of need to engage (or not). So gentle road users may be wasting their money.

2) The cost of a new (refurb) Haldex does not seem that insane - perhaps were are "insuring" against something that is not much more than the cost of the "insurance". ie a few Haldex changes are the same as the cost of a new one, so doing it too often could be just a waste of money. It's not guaranteed to fail if you don't change it.

3) I really feel I want to take it for a professional to do. I like DIY, but not at the expense of a whole day swearing, knuckle busting and back aching.

What I cannot answer for myself (and no one can really), is at how many miles do I need to change it, given all those factors and the fact that LR don't even specify a change. If I lived on a farm, I think this would be a needed service, but I don't.

I also conclude that the LR recommendation isn't so much cynical, but a reflection on the expected use by most owners (ie on road) - unless you do drop clutch starts off the lights a lot. Also, auto's inherently put less sudden torque through the transmission, so where a manual might experience abrupt starts (and engage the Haldex) auto owners who like to get moving before pushing the throttle harder might be giving it a lot less use.

It's only 25000 miles old and as far as I know had a fairly gentle first 3 years, so I am not in a hurry to get it done. Doing it wrong would certainly be worse than leaving it alone.

Having had a go today I have to agree with some of the above posts regarding the difficulty and validity of this work. I purchased the service kit from Bell Engineering and made a start this morning. It took a good hour and a half just to get the propshaft bolts off the flange as the ends had rusted and they kept going tight in the thread and had to be screwed in and out multiple times, all while lying on your back with just a small arc of movement possible on the ratchet. I then decided to have a rethink, since it looked like the shaft would have to come off completely.

I decided to have a look at the oil, and the first part came out pretty clean, although the last part was a little grey. I removed the filter in situ, and although there was some of the telltale black looking debris, this is very soft and rubbing between the fingers dissolves it. For me it was just too much effort to cover a just incase scenario, and having seen the service bulletin from Land Rover, on here somewhere, they state that the black sludge is of no concern, so I have simply changed the oil and filter.

For me this is still more than Land Rover recommend, and if the Haldex fails, then a refurb one is not crazy money. I suggest if you really want it done, then the price offered for a full job on here is good value, given the work involved, although I guess its much easier on a ramp having done it a few times.

As for doing the other ten year items, the gearbox and rear diff are easy, the transfer box is a little difficult to access for getting the oil back in, and this drawing off oil after it is full is a PITA, WHY NOT PUT THE FILL HOLE AT THE REQUIRED LEVEL Doh! (Boxster gearbox is the same so even the Germans can't get it right!)

For Info 2007 vehicle with 115.000 miles

Good Luck

I think I maybe making an appointment at bells to save my weary bones not to bad a drive from me in the midlands.

DirtyDuck wrote:

Being really good at DIY is knowing when to say no !

Three thoughts are coming to my mind:-

1) Some users report minimal dirt/sludge/oil degradation - presumably because it is very dependent on usage (ie lots of need to engage (or not). So gentle road users may be wasting their money.

2) The cost of a new (refurb) Haldex does not seem that insane - perhaps were are "insuring" against something that is not much more than the cost of the "insurance". ie a few Haldex changes are the same as the cost of a new one, so doing it too often could be just a waste of money. It's not guaranteed to fail if you don't change it.

3) I really feel I want to take it for a professional to do. I like DIY, but not at the expense of a whole day swearing, knuckle busting and back aching.

What I cannot answer for myself (and no one can really), is at how many miles do I need to change it, given all those factors and the fact that LR don't even specify a change. If I lived on a farm, I think this would be a needed service, but I don't.

I also conclude that the LR recommendation isn't so much cynical, but a reflection on the expected use by most owners (ie on road) - unless you do drop clutch starts off the lights a lot. Also, auto's inherently put less sudden torque through the transmission, so where a manual might experience abrupt starts (and engage the Haldex) auto owners who like to get moving before pushing the throttle harder might be giving it a lot less use.

It's only 25000 miles old and as far as I know had a fairly gentle first 3 years, so I am not in a hurry to get it done. Doing it wrong would certainly be worse than leaving it alone.

So here we are, a few months later, the Haldex pump has failed - at 30,000 miles/4 years old. Now do I look at this as a evidence I should have changed the oil, just bad luck, or a bonus because it's under JLR warranty and I now get a new pump and free oil change Not to mention if they saw evidence of DIY oil change they may have declined the warranty claim (Something I had not considered when deciding against it)

I'm very much going with options 2 & 3 and still won't be engaging a Haldex oil change in future either. (Head in sand? Time will tell)