Hello all,
one year ago i installed in my car a heating system that will charge the battery heat the coolant and the cabin all in the same time with 220 volt power coming from the house, the power is with timer so every morning at 6:00 the all thing start to work.

2 weeks ago i installed the OSRAM DRL and since then every morning at 6:00 when the heating/charging system starts the DRL will be on as well.

any idea how to prevent the DRL turn on when the battery getting charged?

adding a diagram of the connections.

manage to find the issue, Osram put in the DRL controller a trigger of 14 volt so when charging the controller thinks the motor is on.
I dont realy need this trigger as the controller get a signal from the ignition and from the main beam.
will a motorcycle voltage stabilizer do the trick?

You could try to put a diode in the wire. A diode will drop the voltage by ca 0.7 V. If 0.7 V drop is not enough, try 2 diodes to get 1.4 V drop. I don't know if the wire is just for control (low current) or is it also powering the DRL's (higher current). You should use a diode that can handle the current going through the wire.

Thanks, did not thought about that as a solution.
The control lines are the ACC and dipped light cable as they are very thin, the battery cables are for power as they
are thicker.
I still do not understand why OSRAM made this trigger because as you see the 2 control lines should supply the information to the DRL when to go on or off.
The LED's are 25 watts so with a bit of safety margin 3A dioed should be OK?

If the LED's are 25 W then 3 A diodes should be enough.

I found somewhere that DRL's should only be on when the engine is running, that's why OSRAM is measuring the voltage probably.

But I find it a bit strange that they turn on when charging the battery and ignition is not on, I would expect they would only turn on when ignition is on also. I assume you checked the ACC you used is only on when ignition is on? Because if it is on all the time it would explain the behavior.

Which OSRAM DRL's did you install?

I got those



Not cheap compared to aliexprese options but it looks like they are built to last.

i followed the installation from this guy on youtube, very good guide and with it install was easy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLYpvfC_Hw0

The DRL's are on also when i push the start engine without pressing the brake paddle, meaning motor is off but electronics are on.
i also connected the option that when dipped lights are on DRL is on 80% (approved by EU guidelines)

I do not see why this high voltage trigger is needed.

Not my one but this is how it looks, in complete sun light they are still very bright but it seems the camera is adjusting the light gain so it never come out on pictures like in real life



The box on my car

Install a 220v or a 12v relay after the charger/heater and the feed to the DRL's go through the relays NC contact.

In this configuration the relay will see 12V from battery or 13.6 from charger there will be no "0" so a diode is needed to cancel the 12V coming from the battery

Another option: add a relay connected to ACC and use to contact if the relay to switch the 12V feed. Or connect the 12V feed directly to ACC and not to the battery.

Or use a 220V relay like EYorkshire writes:

Click image to enlarge

This would be my preferred solution but the 220V cables are in a harness and i do not want to split it, keeping the integrity of the 220V system will help in case of fire with the insurance.
will try voltage reduce with a diode and go from there

You can see the 220V connected to the red/black box in the picture

Click image to enlarge

I would find it reasuring to look out into the cold and see the DRLs telling me it was all working. Everyone can spread it - Anyone can catch it. Stay home - the life you save can be your own!

It is also blinking some time as the charger is a smart charger and some time give pulses.
I get condensation inside the lens around where the LED's are which i do not get if i drive with them on.
eventually i am guessing the lens will be dirty from the inside.

First test with one diode failed when the charger start to do pulses led's were blinking.
Added another diode and so far it works, waiting for full charge than will solder the diode in place