Installed bluefin this morning. Took it for short 15 mile test run and it delivers the power really smoothly right through the rev range. Very impressed

Out of interest which engine/gearbox combination have you got ? Jules

It’s a 2.2 diesel auto, jules.

Jules
As you already have the engine in the SD4 tune, do you really need more power?
I find the SD4 Auto has easily enough power for motorways, overtaking, etc.
Regards Ian FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I’m not sure what the actual figures are in regards to, BHP and Nm (torque). To be honest, numbers mean nothing, it’s how those figures are delivered to the wheels that really counts.

which is precisely what those BHP and Torque figures do... deliver the power to the wheels (particularly the torque figures)

but the gearbox and transmission can only withstand a limited maximum of both......... you can remap to 500BHP and 1000Nm if you wanted (hyperthetically) but the gearbox etc will blow at the first attempt

if your going to remap its important to know the figures being achieved to ensure the tolerances of other components aren't compromised

a relatively 'safe' remap for an SD4 is a stage 1 producing approx. 240BHP and 450Nm (up from 190BHP and 410Nm off the top of my head)

Years ago an engine tuning company advertised that they could make a Morris 1000 accelerate like a Ferrari but in the small print "guaranteed for 25 yards and only once per engine/gearbox".  3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I am in agreement with those who are cautious.

Extra torque is a killer of transmission components, and if you limit the torque you will be faced by extra RPM (and wear) on the engine.

If you want to 'feel' more acceleration and responsiveness, have you tried just selecting 'sport' if you have an auto, or hanging on to lower gears if you are manual.

I still believe 190BHP is sufficient for most purposes in our speed limited country, and 315ftlbs is more than enough to cope with most off road problems.

I know these upgrades are as easy as adjusting the boost, but how about the rest of the engineering needed to keep everything safe and reliable. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Last edited by IanMetro on 30th Oct 2017 3:59 pm. Edited 2 times in total

i agree with you IanMetro regarding already having sufficient power and torque (my auto held firm on a very steep junction just on the revs, no brakes needed, and that's down to the torque)

all I would personally like to see is a smoother power curve as these engines can be a bit lumpy at the best of times, but as ive said elsewhere a lot of that is due to unavoidable inconsistencies during production and/or owner maintenance.

To revive the topic...

Are there different versions of the handheld bluefin device? I am looking to buy a second hand one to reduce costs a bit but looking through flea bay i see the devices branded for different makes of cars which left me confused a bit.

I assume they are all the same and its just the software map provided by superchips that differs but being technologicaly illiterate i just thought i'd check first, what with assumptions being the mother of all f**kups and all...