dunkley201 Ah ha, Was wondering what slight vibration was, now I know.

kind Regards

Miss Daisy.  If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

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Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

Just another update.

Had the fl2 back for about 3 weeks now and it hasn’t missed a beat since the garage replaced one of the injectors. No more vibrations when auto box was seemingly in the wrong gear.

It now shifts up and down seamlessly.

Well I'm still trying to locate the source of the vibration in my auto its driving me mad. Seems same as above posts in that it feels like youve gone into 5th instead of 3rd in a manual . Comes in at 1800 - 2000 rpm. Very hard to pinpoint . Taking the haldex fuse out does seem to make it considerably better so I started by removing haldex cleaning and replacing oil and filter and it's made no difference. While underneath I checked all bearings shafts etc for play and although there is a little play in prop centre and where rear shafts come out of diff its very slight and I would expect play in most trans parts to make the bad vibes present all the time not just at centain loads and rev range so I'm now thinking it's a gbox / torque converter.also I've had gearbox adaptions reset . Question is when fuse is removed for haldex does this alter anything in gearbox as driving in normal road mode haldex isn't used i.e. clutch will be disconnected surely,so I would think fuse in or out would make no difference ... .next plan is to get all 4 wheels off the ground and get someone to drive it through all gears and see if I dare go underneath with a listening stick .. any more thoughts or experience of the bad vibes please share thanks.

Tigertim, your 2008 FL2 is fitted with a HALDEX Gen 3. This is proactive and is working all the time, varying the amount of torque available to the back axle.

http://www.awdwiki.com/en/proactive/

Proactive all wheel drive means that the differentials (clutches, etc.) can be locked by the ECU before wheelspin actually occurs. The need for all wheel drive is determined in real time based on the information that is collected from various sensors, such as g-force sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor, steering wheel positon sensor, and so on.


http://www.awdwiki.com/en/haldex/

Haldex generation III, 2004-
A coupling with pre-tensioning capability of the hydraulic clutch by the means of existing feeder pump (PreX™ solution).
Haldex Generation III, IV, and V based all wheel drive systems are proactive. The electronics can pre-tension the clutch and activate all wheel drive before a wheel slip occurs.

If your problem is RPM related, then I suggest that you lock at items in front of the gearbox, like the engine, and if this thread is correct, then look for misfuelling, and perhaps the injectors, or even turbo hoses as in other threads. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Just to share some info on my bad vibration for anyone else still suffering the same .. my auto was giving really bad vibration at 1800-2000 rpm just before it changes gear and after reading tons of posts and info it seems to be a common problem with many possibilites but I still was unable to pinpoint the problem .Having spent hours checking the obvious things I decided to accept it and hope one day something would break and that would reveal the problem . Over the weekend I decided to try a few more things just to rule them out really ... and I am over the moon at the result . No more vibes and feels like a different car to drive . Not really sure which one fixed it but I swapped front wheels to back (slight difference in tread depth) nipped up all subframe to body bolts, slightly repositioned exhaust brackets on rubbers ( to make them tighter) and lastly removed EGR blacking plate (fitted 6 months ago) . Really pleased with it .

I still have vibrations after i done the following
*Oil change all over (Heldex, diff front and rear, gerabox)
*EGR block and unblock
*car is after accident had all lower mounts with the frame below the motor replaced (was vibrate before and after)
*car had already 3 sets of wheels on it (snow, summer and all year tires) and i always swap front to rear to keep wear even
*2SO in diesel- seems to make it vibrate less

so if i compare to the list of Tigertim i am left with the exhaust mounts.

Tigerti, can you elaborate what you done to the exhaust?

Basically although all mounts were in quite good condition and intact the one closest to engine just above subframe was able to move about quite loosely within the rubber so by slightly bending the brackets apart this makes a tighter fit with less free movement . Think I might even replace the rubbers .

I've got this problem too. I'm glad I read this thread because I was thinking of getting the gearbox reconditioned. Mine has been a lot better since I blanked the EGR but it's still there. I'll be trying the exhaust mount fix on the weekend. Thanks for all these posts.