Thanks oldgeezer . I like the idea of the return line back pressure possible problem. I guess I could simply disconnect the return line to tank at the fuel filter.
Has there been any known problems with the small back pressure maintaining valve in the injector spill lines?

Don't think it would be the alternator causing the problem as we have fully charged the battery immediately before trying to start so I guess the alternator loading would be very light with a fully charged battery and no power consumers turned on.

I don't think the turbo is stifling the engine but will give it some thought right enough. I did have the link between the turbo actuator and turbo off to free of the variable vanes. I wonder if the link has come off causing an issue. Also wondering if its a crank to cam phasing is out causing a problem. Or if the cheap ebay crank trigger ring has lost its mojo?
Many thanks and all please keep the suggestions coming. The Dog

This is very similar to my Son's car back in 2015. That turned out to be the Cam position sensor although you say you have replaced it His car didn't show any DTC's for a long time then it just filled the memory to the max 228 if I remember correctly.

As I understand it from back then, the cam sensor is only used on starting then the engine only relies on the crank sensor. just like your car it would start and as the revs climbed to idle speed it would just cut out. I assume this was the point at which the cam sensor was failing but too early for the crank sensor to take over.

Worth looking at that area again, my Sons car has been fine since in that respect The Huffing & Puffing is my Son getting feed up with it

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And here's the fault it eventually started showing


 2007 TD4 XS The work horse that earns its up keep
2013 SD4 HSE The posh one for towing the caravan
1973 Triumph Stag I bought in 2009 and restored.

Hi, Did you resolve this issue I would be interested, as would others I'm sure, to know what it was if it's sorted now  2007 TD4 XS The work horse that earns its up keep
2013 SD4 HSE The posh one for towing the caravan
1973 Triumph Stag I bought in 2009 and restored.

The car has ended up in the 4x4 Land Rover specialist garage luckily the owner is a good sort and is keen to bottom out the problem without skinning me. So far they have not found the problem. Their high end analyser has not yet pinpointed the problem. They are a pretty determined bunch and up for the challenge of getting it fixed.
I'll post again when we eventually (hopefully?) find the problem.

The Land Rover L359 Freelander 2’s engine may not restart after heat soak due to insufficient fuel pressure to overcome vapor lock (i.e. liquid fuel changing to gas while still in the fuel delivery system).
The L359 Freelander 2’s engine may be hard to restart – or stumble when started – requiring software updates for the body control module, instrument module and sun sensor.

http://ukcar.reviews/landrover-freelander2...s-recalls/ FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

That's about gasoline cars, not the case here, as The dog has the diesel version.

Fellows, Well its fixed at last Turns out they replaced the fuel rail which includes the pressure regulator and the pressure sensor, so unfortunately I'll never know which actual component failed. Apparently the fault was too high a fuel pressure. At least it's gong again,