Freelander 2 starts runs up to 600 rpm and then shuts down No fault codes appearing. Was running ok then this suddenly occurred, cam and crank sensor have been renewed. Fuel pressure on cranking is good 4400psi approximately recorded. Could an immobiliser problem cause this to happen? The Dog

Yes, it could be.

Have you tried running it on carb cleaner or something like it to find if it is getting enough fuel it could be a collapsed filter or maybe even air filter try the easy things first. Understeer when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower how fast you hit the wall.
Torque how far you take the wall with you.

Hi Billio, Yes tried all I know today. The fuel filter was new 40 mile ago. I even tried running it with the throttle flap assembly removed from the manifold but still wired in ( I can see the flap opening and closing as it should.
Had a oscilloscope on the cam and crank sensors and can see they are both producing a signal.
Don't know what I can do to check for immobiliser faults?

Does anyone know if any of the OBD2 scanners would show immobiliser faults. Was also wondering if the cam and crank sensors were not synchronising or whatever the correct terminology is for this. My Autel Maxi Daig OBD reader isn't really good enough. No fault codes showing.

A month or so ago I did replace the crank trigger ring with a £18 Ebay one and this got the car going from completely dead, but now it starts revs and dies as mentioned. If the ebay trigger ring had went faulty then I guess it would have went back to a completely dead situation again?

It starts easily but just wont keep running, gets up to around 600rpm and cuts out. Thanks, The Dog

Have you checked the exhaust system it could be choked I got caught out with that one on a peugeot van years ago maybe worth a quick check. Understeer when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower how fast you hit the wall.
Torque how far you take the wall with you.

Hi Billion yes the exhausts fine, good shout though. Thanks, The dog

Have you plenty of fuel in the tank ? Long shot but maybe the saddle tank transfer pump is not working.

Also as the car was stood any chance of water ingress into tank/fuel system, try draining off the fuel filter. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

egr valve stuck open?

Fellows the tanks is half full and the fuel rail pressure is good when cranking at around 4400psi No air bubbles in the transparent fuel lines. No water in tank and the fuel is fresh. It ran splendidly, stopped and started ok as it should many times for a good 40 to 60 miles or more then when parked-up just refused to start and continue to run. It starts every time only to stop when reaching 600RPM or very close too. No OBDII fault codes showing.
Oscilloscope signals when cranking show the cam and crank sensors are working. The crank sensor was again renewed "just in case". The of a thing

Could the throttle valve be stuck?

you would start on the air in the system, then it would choke off with insufficient flow - the car will run normally if you jam it wide open, mine didn't show any error codes until it failed completely. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

He already said that he tried with the throttle assembly removed so throttle valve is out of the question...

So does it cut out if left to idle on startup without touching the throttle ? Or just as soon as you demand power from idle setting ?

If it will idle why not let it warm through fully and see if it persists. Thoughts being once warm sensors are operating differently.

Its almost as if the car is protecting itself from damage but not giving the fault code. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I forgot to mention that I had blanked off the EGR valve at the inlet manifold end however I wouldn't have thought this would have caused the starting problem that's now appeared? All ideas most welcome. Thanks again The dog.

Hi Yorkie Bob,
No it doesn't go on to idle only reached 600rpm and immediately cuts out. Throttle pedal position makes no difference. Always starts on the button but then cuts at 600rpm.
Autel OBDII live data shows throttle pedal range to be working ok.
Engine oil pressure sensor is also working ok also seen on live data.

Try unplugging the alternator incase the smart charge is down and the alternator is going to full load at idle because if it does its just possible the alternator load is stalling the engine,as it wont cope with full charge at idle as it sounds almost like the engine cant cope with the load. or the ECU has lost its idle speed setting and if it cannot reach its desired idle speed the fuel will shut straight off.
You will also need to check the return pressures as if too much of a differential pressure will sht the injectors straight down.
I would scope the injectors to see if they are shutting off causing it to stop
Make sure your turbo hasn't seized solid preventing air flow causing it to stall instantly as well.
Had the with a 2.7V6d. fire up too about 500rpm and just peter straight out and the garage had spent 4 days and it was siezed turbos
There we go I have given a you a few thoughts to check Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !