I have a 2008 LR2 (I6). A month back I started noticing at stops my A/C would blow warm air and my temp gauge would go up if I sat idle long enough. After painstaking research, I decided to replace the cooling fan module after determing my cooling/radiator fan wasn’t working. Found the module for roughly $200. Got the part and replaced the faulty one. Started car up and fan ran perfectly. I could hear the variable fans running fine. For 3 days everything worked fine, then on a hot day, I shut my car off and the cooling fan was still running. Not a big deal as it was hot. Went inside and napped. 2 hours later my mother-in-law mentioned that my car fan was running. Ran out and unplugged cooling module then plugged it back in. It went off then came back on. Left it unplugged for an hour and once plugged back in, it was still running. Decided to exchange it. Thermostat works because only have issues when idling for more than 5-10 minutes. Awaiting new part, but if it happens again and runs continuously, I want to be prepared. Anyone else have this issue and any knowledge on how to fix would be great.

What is your AC high side gas pressure? High pressure will force the engine cooling fan on. That said, the HVAC ECU should shut down in less than 5 minutes after ignition off. Might still be worth a quick check.

rocjohns wrote:

I have a 2008 LR2 (I6). A month back I started noticing at stops my A/C would blow warm air and my temp gauge would go up if I sat idle long enough. After painstaking research, I decided to replace the cooling fan module after determing my cooling/radiator fan wasn’t working. Found the module for roughly $200. Got the part and replaced the faulty one. Started car up and fan ran perfectly. I could hear the variable fans running fine. For 3 days everything worked fine, then on a hot day, I shut my car off and the cooling fan was still running. Not a big deal as it was hot. Went inside and napped. 2 hours later my mother-in-law mentioned that my car fan was running. Ran out and unplugged cooling module then plugged it back in. It went off then came back on. Left it unplugged for an hour and once plugged back in, it was still running. Decided to exchange it. Thermostat works because only have issues when idling for more than 5-10 minutes. Awaiting new part, but if it happens again and runs continuously, I want to be prepared. Anyone else have this issue and any knowledge on how to fix would be great.

are you talking about this component?

Click image to enlarge

While searching, came across this thread........anyone see any downside to using fan B above in a Canada?

I think I will change my rad fan shortly down the line as preventative maintenance.

It's for hot markets and Canada is not a hot market, tepid at best

You might need to change the CCF to make the best use of it. Both the HVAC and engine will need to know you have twin fan to use the calibration map for the dual fans.

I'm not sure if the Freelander uses a directly controlled fan or a LIN fan. if its the latter you may get DTCs and a MIL without the CCF change.

Do you really need it? The FL2 underwent a pretty aggressive development, towing trailers well over the rated capacity of the car up the Gross Lockner pass. The hot market fan is used for idle performance in countries that see 40c ambient temperatures. Once the car is over around 30mph the engine cooling fan doesn't do a lot.

I did upgrade my LR2 to the dual fan setup.

I purchased a dual fan for a Volvo S80 and it works fine.

I was worried about editing the CCF but I didn’t have to.

For me the advantage of the dual fan is that a single failure will only disable one of the fans not both.

I prefer the redundancy


Note: the Fan is expensive but I didn’t risk the $$$$, if it didn’t work I also own a S80 that I could put the dual fan in, my S80 came stock with the dual fan


One last thought if you read the Land Rover service manual the time when you need the fan the most is when you are off road and using a lot of power but you are moving very slow

Take care

Paul

^^^^^ Good to know that I can avoid editing the CCF. I am going to preemptively replace the single fan with the Volvo dual system sometime later this year.

Just called the Volvo parts dept near me......not a helpful bunch at all! They want a VIN # before even looking up a part, I asked them for a dual fan rad cooling system for a 2008 S80.

63846XF TYC?

Any ideas as to the OEM manufacturer or Volvo part # for this fan......? VO3115116?

You could ask the guys here. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Here is the VIN for my 2010 S80

YV1960AS2A1127490

It has a dual fan

Much appreciated Paul, thank you.

To update:

The dual rad fan for the Volvo 2010 S80, sister engine to the 2008 FL2/LR2 si6 is Volvo part # 31686808. It's pricey but it's also insurance.

That's what I bought

Volvo part

Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
31686808 Fan Assembly $410.41 1 $410.41




If you want something cheaper I recommend


Volvo CONTINENTAL VDO Auxiliary Fan Assembly 31686808
S80, V70, XC70, XC60, S60, V60


Take care

Paul

Looks like I might be replacing the rad fan.............mine stopped working period. I'll get the Volvo dual fan module but first I need to check the fuse, the temp switch and the control module. Luckily for me, I have the PID working for the torque app as the gauge is not linear. I will have to reflash the dashboard with Alex's custom flash for the linear coolant gauge but since I use the torque app I put it off for now.

I am having trouble opening the F3 fuse cover, that darn thing is a PITA to open as I can't see where to start, sides, front, back? I'll give it a whirl later today and report back but I have already made up my mind to re & re the fan and shroud but it's a bit involved.

Motion,

I am not sure which Fuse you are trying to get to

Here is how the side panel of the fuse box is removed.

I you determine how to remove another panel please post the procedure here.

I did manage to uncover the fuses F17 - F21.

To get to them you have to release the two locks and then lift the panel.












Here are the two locks that need to be released

Remember to disconnect the battery first then push the lock toward the center of the fuse box using a small flat blade screwdriver





And here is a picture of the fuses behind the cover

Note: F16 is not installed only F17 to F21




Good luck

Paul