Ah... spoke to soon.
On day 3 it didn't start. I had not driven it any of the intervening days.
Busy with work so hard to get time to look at this hence the delays in reporting.

What is now obvious is there is a problem with the electric exterior mirrors. When you press the L or R button the green tell-tale light does not come on.
Can't adjust the mirror with toggle switch either. Probably related to above.
When you try to fold the mirrors using L and R at same time, only driver one folds and unfolds.
This applies to both button/switch units I have so it's most likely not them.

I'll have a look through the topics now to see what I can find but if anyone knows what part is likely issue I'll be glad to hear.

Thanks,
Malcolm

Malcolm,

I am sorry to hear that your problem still isn't fixed.

Based on your earlier comment that Fuse FA1 eliminated the leakage current to 0 Amps

Please take the following into consideration

Note: the electrical hardware people don't refer to the Battery Drain as leakage they use the term Quiescent current instead (for our discussion here we can use these terms interchangeably)

Leakage = Battery Drain = Quiescent Current

From the Land Rover Battery Care Manual




The two important pieces of information are

1. The 35 minutes after locking that everything shutdown (or 12 minutes if you double lock)

2. The current draw of 23.6 mili Amps


The battery fitted to my LR2 is rated for 80 Amp * Hours

If we assume that the battery is only half charged to start and that we don't want it to get below quarter before we start then engine then that allows for 20 Amp Hours of power draw before we need to recharge.

20 Amp Hours / .023 Amps = 869 Hours (36 Days)

I am not sure that I believe the .023 Amp quiescent current, I don't think that my LR2 will start if I don't drive it for a month

Good Luck

Paul

Malcolm,

I also checked the wiring diagram and it appears that there is a relay inside the CEM (the box by the front passengers feet with the fuses) And this relay needs to shut down the power to some of the modules.

It shows up as Relay Battery Saver.

If this relay were stuck then it would prevent your land rover from entering power save mode.

As I pointed out in the previous post you need to wait several minutes before the relay cuts the power.

Sorry I can't be more helpful

Paul

Hi Paul,

That is all good info and very helpful, thanks.

The problem is something to do with the wing mirrors.
When you press the L or R button the green tell-tale light does not come on.
Can't adjust the mirror with toggle switch either. Probably related to above.
When you try to fold the mirrors using L and R at same time, only driver one folds and unfolds.
This applies to both button/switch units I have so it's most likely not them. ( The one currently installed was manufactured in 2007, same year as the car, the original one was made in 2010 and the buttons for the windows are slightly different. They have a rim around the edge that the 2007 does not)

I will hopefully have time to look into this more on Saturday.

I have the wiring diagrams for a LHD. But i don't really understand these diagrams.
On the Mirrors circuit MIRRORS CIRCUIT 9G92-70333-A-A
On that diagram, is Module Drivers Door D253 that FoCoMo box?
Is Switch-Mirror (S156) the button/switch unit with the L and R selector and the toggle switch?

Given that the tell tail light do not illuminate when pressed, what would you test and how?

If you have time to explain that thank you very much.

Cheers,
Malcolm

Malcolm,

If I was debugging your problem I would start simple.

For my LR2 the power windows and the power mirrors continue to work even after I stop the engine and remove the key from the dock.

They stop working when I open the drivers door. (I haven't tried the other doors but I can this weekend)

Can you confirm that this is the case for you as well? (check the windows if the mirrors aren't working properly)

Make sure you can raise and lower the window with the engine stopped and the key removed and that you can't raise and lower after opening the drivers door.

I am not certain what happens if the ECU never receives the door open signal, it may never enter power save mode (I don't know this it would need to be confirmed)

I do suspect that the power consumption is high enough to drain the battery in a day or two if power save mode is not turned on.



As for you specific questions

D253 - yes this should be the FOMOCO box

S156 - I think that you have identified the right part but I am not certain from looking at the wiring diagram


I will look at the diagram further this weekend to see if I can find something else useful to test

Let me know the result of the test shown above

Good Luck

Paul


PS My mirrors don't fold in, we didn't get that option here.

Paul,Thanks for all this help.

All windows work correctly when engine is running.
Action: Stop engine but key still in.
Now both passenger side windows open but drivers side do not!
Action: Open driver door
No windows open.

Found by accident but maybe this is by design...
With FA1 fuse removed ( Driver Door Controls ) I can still open the driver window.

If i don't crack it this weekend i will call a specialist.

Thanks again,
Malcolm

Malcolm,

I think the next step is to get diagnostic scan from Land Rover or from a specialist that has the factory tools.

The fact that the windows behave differently (as you described) makes me think that there is a communication problem (LIN Bus or CAN Bus)

The dealer has tools that can check for codes related to communication bus failure.

Good Luck

Paul

Thanks Paul.

I'll look through the forum and see who is the recommended indy in my area.

Thanks for your help.

All the best,
Malcolm

Malcolm,

If I was closer I would help you out in person or at least buy you a beer.

Your patience is truly noteworthy.

I did manage to uncover the fuses F17 - F21.

To get to them you have to release the two locks and then lift the panel.












Here are the two locks that need to be released

Remember to disconnect the battery first then push the lock toward the center of the fuse box using a small flat blade screwdriver





And here is a picture of the fuses behind the cover

Note: F16 is not installed only F17 to F21




I also checked the voltage drop across the fuses

Measured within 1 minute of shutdown

F17 2.6 millivolts

F18 48 millivolts

F19 0 millivolts

F20 0 millivolts

F21 0.8 millivolts


After 10 minute (I didn't lock my LR2)


F17 0 millivolts

F18 0 millivolts

F19 0 millivolts

F20 0 millivolts

F21 0 millivolts


Hopefully this helps

Good Luck

Paul