Just did a oil change on my fr2 and I have over tightened the sump plug so it's now just turning and weaping, so do I need a new sump plug or a new sump as I'm not sure which is rounded off . Anyone know what the plug is made of? Or have anyone had this problem.. Lee

Welshman ​living in England
2011 SD4 HSE auto
2004 1.3cdti Corsa Energy

Last edited by Heppy on 10th Sep 2017 3:01 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I think the sump is alloy and the nut is steel so I would imagine you've the sump thread. It can be repaired with a helicoil insert or something similar though. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

As you have now realised its very easy to over-tighten a steel bolt in an aluminium casting. It requires only about 20Nm - plus a new or re-annealed washer.

You can fit a new sump or insert a helicoil or similar device. Jules

Find a good automotive engineers and ask if they can helicoil the sump in situ and at what cost, then fit new plug and washer. Could be a risk to drive there of course.

Otherwise its get a new plug and washer and put a tap down the thread but you will always wonder what is going to happen at the next oil change.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/post272437.html


Suggest you use a torque wrench to correct setting in future. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I'll just have to take it off and weld a new nut on. I've had vauxhalls for 15 year's and have never had a problem with sump plugs before Lee

Welshman ​living in England
2011 SD4 HSE auto
2004 1.3cdti Corsa Energy

Helicoil the sump & get a oil pump off eBay for £20, then it's no more about with the sump plug & engine guard

I used a helicoil on a spark plug once after 2 mouth's it went through the bonnet so I would not use them again. I have worked as a welder in engineering for 17 years welding various materials and I would say that my sump is probably steel having hit it with a hammer and not putting a dent in it. I have also worked on engines since I was 5 over 40 years ago so I can do anything apart from remapping, I even do my own puncher's and have repaired a sump before (my brother's Capri hit a rock) but it is always best to get some advice on the matter at hand first.
anyone know what material this type of plug is made from Lee

Welshman ​living in England
2011 SD4 HSE auto
2004 1.3cdti Corsa Energy

Last edited by Heppy on 10th Sep 2017 3:23 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I can see why a spark plug might leap out of your bonnet at 10 to 1 compression. Its like comparing apples and pears. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Either tap it out to the next size sump plug up or get a new sump. Secondhand ones on eBay for less than £40.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FREELANDER-2-EVO...Sw44BYW7VD Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I probably will tap it out as I've tried to take the sump off but it will not budge . Now all I have to do is find my tap and die set that I used about 6 years ago it may take a while I'll probably have to buy a new set just to find my old set once I used it lol... Lee

Welshman ​living in England
2011 SD4 HSE auto
2004 1.3cdti Corsa Energy

Yorky Bob is right the spark plug jumped out because of the compression whereas the sump plug isn't.
Tap to the bigger size plug is OK so long as there is enough material around the hole. I think the helicoil is the easiest route.

Heppy mate the sump is bolted and glued on, took both me and my dad to force ares off

Machine mart do a sump tappin kit might be worth alook we also need todo mine as i did the same as you over a year ago but luckly it didnt leak

Dan Freelander 57 plate XS Blue Auto

Dan how did you brake the glue seal only I tried with a bar but it would not budge or is just brute force I need Lee

Welshman ​living in England
2011 SD4 HSE auto
2004 1.3cdti Corsa Energy

They sell sump plug kits to tap in the next size up

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sump+plu...p;ie=UTF-8

We used a blade and flat head screw driver to get the lip free then bent it down alittle, then worked are way around and forced it off, was a right pain the rear doing it curb side. Just make sure you dont dink spacer the sump bolts too

Dan Freelander 57 plate XS Blue Auto