hi all, got my freelander from a private seller around 6 months ago, i knew it had a haldex or similar problem when I purchased it but i got it at a decent price relative to the cars condition.

Anyhow, i sourced what was described as a new old stock haldex unit complete with pump and ecu, I removed the old one today,

my questions are,

Fitting the haldex:
I am wary of damaging the replacement haldex or the rear dif when i fit it to the car, should i rock the cars rear wheel to ensure that the haldex internal mesh with the rear dif internals.

Programming the haldex
Will the haldex require programming to my car, if so is it safer not to connect the electrics until i can get it programmed, i dont intend on driving the car until i get this done.

It will just slot straight in, no need to jiggle wheels.

What year is the car?? Personally i would reuse the existing ECU and control valve. There were a glut of these knocking around for sale and the ECU were damaged/faulty. Best off to just reuse your existing ECU and it saves any messing around. If it post 2013 the replacement ECU will have to be married to the car if used. www.bellengineering.co.uk

I am assumimg you are swapping like for like haldex (i.e. gen 4 for a gen 4) www.bellengineering.co.uk

hi austen it fitted as you said, i was just worried about damaging something, they are both gen 4, the car is 2012,

Well i removed the haldex by unbolting the rear propshaft bolts and the propshaft center support bracket, now i cant get the propshaft back on, it will fit its just the bulge on the end of the propshaft wont go over the lip of on the haldex, should i have removed the complete propshaft by undoing the front propshaft bolts - i think its a yes

I'm assuming it has the big damper on the outside of the haldex input flange, horrible things that just cause agro!! If you unbolt the other support bearing it will just slip in, just. Be careful though as prop will be like a heavy angry snake, and if you have dropped rear exhaust brackets already the entire exhaust will drop, just support the rear exhaust box. www.bellengineering.co.uk

hi austen, i removed the exhaust rear section before removing the haldex.

The prop wont go back, and its getting near to pub time so i am going to fill it with haldex oil as supplied by you, and remove the front prop bolts.

Hopefully the haldex fairies will sort it when i am out, if not i will be back out side tomorrow after work.

To be honest, my car has a dtc relating to fuel pump authorisation, i read somewhere that there is a fix that you have to apply to the wiring in the fuel tank so i may just remove the prop anyway and sort the fuel tank out as well.

thanks for the input,

So what did the Haldex fairies do ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

weekender wrote:

hi austen, i removed the exhaust rear section before removing the haldex.

The prop wont go back, and its getting near to pub time so i am going to fill it with haldex oil as supplied by you, and remove the front prop bolts.

Hopefully the haldex fairies will sort it when i am out, if not i will be back out side tomorrow after work.

To be honest, my car has a dtc relating to fuel pump authorisation, i read somewhere that there is a fix that you have to apply to the wiring in the fuel tank so i may just remove the prop anyway and sort the fuel tank out as well.

thanks for the input,