Hi
I've not had my Freelander 2 for too long but it has developed a whine from the transfer box (its definitely the transfer box before some tells me its the diff, tyres or a wheel bearing) . I'm looking to remove and rebuild the transfer box but cannot find much information on the rebuilding of this. I would be very grateful for any information on this, mainly the torque settings for the pre load nut on the pinion side or if someone can advise me of a workshop manual that covers the rebuilding of the transfer box. I have a couple of manuals but they don't cover this. Thanks in advance if someone can help.

Hi,

I have no experience or seen any documentation/procedure for the PTU/transfer box, but after reading around I have the impression that the pinion bearings have the same setup as the rear diff and also need the same/similar special tools to be done. I think most of these operations has been done under warranty by professionals for now, but more DIY information will probably be available as our cars gets older by the years as the owners will not be willing to pay what it costs in the garages.

Take a look at my DIY rear diff guide and the cross section shown here. It may give you some guidelines but not the final answers. I know that you should also pay attention to the splined connection between the gearbox and PTU as this has in some cases worn out/sheared off, leaving the car with no RWD.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29814.html

Please share your experience with us, it will be a great help for the future DIY`s
Good luck!

Hi
Thanks for the reply. From asking around and reading what I can there is no shimming required for the transfer box nor is there any shown in the diagram, the only data I need is the setting for the pre-load nut shown on the diagram at number 14.
I think you have the same manual as me if you read further you come across this statement.

"A collapsible spacer is located between the outer taper roller bearing and a shoulder on the pinion gear. The collapsible
spacer holds the bearing in alignment and also collapses under pressure applied to the pre-load nut. This allows the
pre-load nut to be tightened to a predetermined torque, which collapses the spacer, setting the correct bearing pre-load
and the correct meshing of the pinion gear and crown wheel drive gear teeth."

Its this predetermined torque setting I'm after. The manual does refer to pinion nut on the next page with a setting of 48NM but this seems very light to me for the pre-load nut.

Q. Is the pinion nut mentioned with a setting of 48NM the same as the pre-load nut(number 14 on the diagram)

Hopefully someone can advise.

Have you tried asking Austen at Bell Engineering he is the expert on transmission and very helpfull

Hi, to me it is reasonable to think that the 48Nm applies to the flange bolt pos. 16 shown in the cross section.

For the rear diff, the initial torque for the nut is 250Nm, but needs to be tightened further in steps of 1 degree until a torque of 1.1Nm is needed to steady rotate the shaft at 60RPM. I think a similar procedure applies to here as well, but the rotating torque might be different.

Possibly but the manual does say pinion nut where as the diagram no 16 refers to flange head bolt. Can they really mix up a bolt and nut? But the 48NM would seem more conducive to this bolt.

I will try and call Austin next week thanks.

Might try and measure the preload before strip down but this may give a false reading if a locking compound was used.

Hi,

I checked my Haynes manual, and this one specifies 48Nm for the bolt which is shown as pos. no.16.

Remember that you need to manufacture som kind of special tool to be able to loose and tighten the bearing retainer nut as there is no other options to lock the pinion shaft with standard tools as I can see.

Please let us know what you find out

Hi chopperdude,
What did you end up using for the torque value on the pre-load nut?
I have my PTU apart ready to fit new bearings and oil seal kit.

Do you really need to know the predetermined torque as it is set by the spacer collapsing?
This is a very common way to set preload on bearings and it is set by tightening the nut until the spacer collapses and at that point you have the correct preload.

You do not need to know the torque setting required

Hi Wolfrog
There is virtually no information available that will give you the torque setting required for the pinion nut to collapse the spacer. This is quite strange as Landrover are very specific when it comes to the torque required to collapse the spacer when rebuilding the rear diff. I basically used the rear diff rebuild as a guide. MRRover 75 gives a really good post on his rebuild the link is in his post above.
You will need to make up some special tools to hold the shaft etc. My method was as follows.
I cranked the nut upto around 200 to 250NM (similar to the rear diff rebuild) as this took out most of the play and felt about right, I then tightened down in the 1 degree increments keeping an eye on the torque force required to turn, using the rear diff method as a guide. The torque required to rotate the pinion shaft of the rear diff is 1.1 Nm +/- 0.2 Nm at 60rpm. I fortunately have a torque wrench that will measure this but MRRover has an alternative in his diff guide. I continued like this till all play was removed and the torque force to turn was about correct ( I think mine was around 1.5 NM). It worked for me approx 10000 miles later transfer box is still fine. Good luck mate.

Thanks for your feedback, and thanks for appreciating my work on my rear diff.

Looking at the way the PTU is built up, it makes sense to use the same procedure for setting up the pinion as with the rear diff. I think this is a good starting pont as long as there is no documentation available. Did you replace the pinion bearings only, or all 4? which other parts needed replacement?

Hi mate
I bought a rebuild kit and renewed all the bearing and seals, but the only bearing that was worn was the pinion shaft which was well worn. The only other thing of note was that the case took some washing out as little particles of the bearing faces were every where.

Thanks all for your inputs!
First thing to note is that the pinion nut for the PTU is 44 mm (12 point), rather than the 42 mm for the rear differential pinion nut.
Using the one half of a 44 mm socket, I fabricated a bracket to straddle the nose of the PTU and locate on the cast pads on either side.

Click image to enlarge

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Thanks for your information. It might come handy in the future (hope not )

Great post and glad you got sorted.