Hi all

I have a relatively minor issue on my '56 FRL2 HSE i6.

Occasionally after relatively short journeys (say 1/2 hour or thereabouts) followed by a short rest of not more than the journey time, the car starts then immediadtely stalls. This happens a few times then it starts. The last time this happened I also heard what sounded like a stuck starter motor for a few seconds. It then started, but the radio/screen wouldn't work. I stopped, turned engine off and took key out, reinserted and it started fine and all worked ok.

Being a mechanic- and technophobe I have no idea what this might be - an electrical issue/fault with the key?

It is not serious but I don't want it to get worse. Plus I am still, just, within the 3 month dealer warranty (expires next week).

A couple of related questions:

1. Does anyone know what an indy dealer may charge for diagnostics for this? Even if that is subsequently refunded under warranty, I assume that the £300 individual claim limit on the warranty won't cover much actual repair work (even if done at an indy).
2. More broadly, does anyone know if the implied warranties in Sale of Goods Act would oblige the dealer to fix this irrespective of warranty issues (as is technically not fit for purpose)?

Any guidance gratefullly received!

Thanks

Adey

I'm having the exact same issue with my wife's '56 plate i6! I'm going to add the extra battery to starter earth tonight, but I'm starting to think that it's related to the crank sensor. The first time it'll try to start, the revcounter will show maybe 500rpm, but it won't quite catch and run. Subsequent tries just result in the engine cranking with no revs showing.

I'm starting to think that the initial 'almost start' is due to residual fuel pressure. I suspect that the crank sensor isn't telling the car that the engine is turning so it's not energising the fuel pump and/or the spark plugs.

If you're under warranty then get back in there and make it their problem!

My 56 plate i6 had this issue 6 months after I bought it. Initially thought I wasn't holding the start button long enough. It always seemed to start on the second go though.It would do this maybe once or twice a week. But then it became more frequent to the point it was every time I got in the car, but never failed to start on the second go.
Then one day it didn't do anything. There was a click, then everything would shut off. The initial checks could be done by pressing the start button, with foot off the brake. But put my foot on the brake and press the button and "click" , everything switches off. Then the error messages started. "Transmission fault, traction reduced" or such like.
Long story short - needed a new starter motor. Threw in an extra earth lead to the starter for good measure. Needs to be about 6 inches longer than the extra one on a Td4 due to the position of the starter on the i6.

[quote="rpaterson"]

I'm starting to think that the initial 'almost start' is due to residual fuel pressure. I suspect that the crank sensor isn't telling the car that the engine is turning so it's not energising the fuel pump and/or the spark plugs.

Yep. That seems like a starter motor issue.

thanks both, much appreciated.

i would defintely like to get this fixed before it potentially deteriorates.

do you know if i can claim under sale of goods act (now consumer rights act) even though i have a (limited) 3 month dealer warranty? i think i can.

if so i will get hold of the dealer, give them some ideas as to what the problem may be (based on your comments), and demand it is fixed at no cost to me.

thanks again

adey

Yes, you can. It's called the Consumer Rights Act now but it's essentially the same legislation with some digital rights stuff added in. If a fault presents itself within 6 months of purchase, it's assumed to have been present. After 6 months it's up to you and is harder to get a result.

@RealBeale - it's not the starter, the engine turns over quickly enough and will start once the car has cooled down a bit more. I'm going to see about the hot soak software upgrade and, if that proves unsuccessful, I'll throw a crank position sensor at it.