I have got the dreaded oil leak between engine / gearbox. Assuming that it is rear crank seal. So getting myself organised to drop the autobox off and take a look. There are posts mentioning that the Peugeot seal for the 2.2 HDI is the better seal to go with rather than the LR one.

Does anyone know the part number for the Peugeot seal or at least what models that particular engine is used in?

Any other tips regarding dropping the autobox? I am awaiting a copy of the workshop manual from Fleabay, so this should give me more info on the subject.

Main concern is keeping the torque convertor engaged with the gearbox. Might be worth fabricating a plate that I can bolt to the bell housing one there is enough clearance between box and engine. 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

I am thinking this is the seal I need?

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/117fo0090 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

crazy how parts like this go on premium cars at 4 years old....

This might help

Click image to enlarge

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/117fo0040

This is the correct one! 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

how did you get on with this ?

I ask because I may have the same issue.

Not done it yet. Been busy cleaning it up as it will be up for sale soon!

There are a number of after market brands / suppliers of the oil seal appearing on tinternet. Not sure of their quality though?? Obviously want to fit the best possible, as it is the work involved to get to the seal and not the cost of the seal that is important.

I will give my local Peugeot Dealer a ring and see if they will play ball. Thinking it is better to stick with a manufacturers original part, not knowing who the OEM supplier is?

Just got Topix on a DVD via Ebay - Job looks straightforward enough, a bit involved but ok. Main concern is keeping the TC engaged on the oil pump when auto box is removed. I might fabricate a bracket to fit onto front of TC and bolt to Bell housing to secure it. I will let you know when I get the box off.

Hoping to do it in a couple of weeks time. Busy with other jobs this week. 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

Dunno whether the FL2 torque converter setup is the same as others but in the past when I've removed autoboxes, you usually remove the starter, turn the engine over and remove 3 or 4 bolts holding the t/c onto the flex plate and then just lever it away. It normally stays in the box unless you tip the box on its end with the t/c facing down. A lot easier to refit the box compared to a manual - no lining up of clutch splines etc. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Yes pretty much same set up. Starter motor off and unbolt flex plate from TC. The only difference is that it looks like the flex plate is an integral part of the flywheel, rather than a separate part. I will find out when I get in there! 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

Hi Agroman,

I am about to let my mechanic changing the rear seal too...do you know if there is any LR recommendation or points to be careful with when doing it? Why do you prefer to keep the TC on?

Pal

hopefully straightforward enough- but I haven't done it yet. I will be able to answer this better after. If your garage hasn't got it, it would be a good idea for them to get a DVD copy of Topix - the LR workshop manual, cheap on Ebay! Not sure if it comes in different languages?

TC must remain engaged on the gearbox oil pump drive. If it is misaligned when you come to start it, it will brake drive and you will need a new gearbox

If TC comes off you are best to take gearbox right out and stand it on its end and engage TC properly and check it is on with measurements against the face of the bell housing.

Hoping I can drop the box without having to drain oil. 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

Spend a few hours today dismantling so have finally got to see the seal in situ.

Basic order of disassembly as follows:

Remove Air cleaner + pipework and top engine cover.
Battery and tray.
Unclip elec cables from top of gearbox + selector cable etc.
Drain power steering
Support engine with top cross beam.
Remove LH gearbox mount.
Jack up car and get on axle stands back on the jacking point on the sills Get as high as axle stand will allow.
Remove wheels
Remove under tray
Remove Starter
Drain gearbox and unbolt cooler pipes. Collect oil carefully so you can measure how much to replace (4.5 litres)
Remove Turbo under engine pipe
Wheel arch liner RH side + access panel LH side
remove drop links, steering ball joints and hub lower ball joints
Remove steering column pinch bolt in car
I need to replace my inner wishbone bushes so I removed wishbones completely, will replace whole unit as the front bushes are not available separately.
Unbolt steering pipes at rack end, catch oil. unclip fuel pipes.
Remove front exhaust rubbers
Remove lower RH engine mount
Support subframe and unbolt front and rear.
Lower subframe and remove.
Remove transfer box + mounting bracket.
Unbolt flex plate bolts.
Unbolt and remove gearbox.
Unbolt flywheel.

Look at the pile of bits left in front of the car and think oh hell I hope I remember how all this fits back together! Hope that the oil seal is the cause of the oil leak in the first place!

Interestingly the oil gallery bolt did tighten by about 1/8th of a turn with a 3/8th wrench, so who knows if this was the culprit??

Now got to work out getting the oil seal out. thinking of drilling the seal and screwing in some screws either side and pulling . If this doesn't work, will have to make up a puller. 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

I have just had mine sorted - the car had just come out of warranty but because the leak had been advised prior it was sorted as a warranty claim. The book time for this is 8 hours and it took them 11 in the end.

Update - all back together and back on the road. Hears hoping for a dry bottom

Just need to get wheel alignment done as I replace the lower wishbones whilst I had the subframe off. Inner bushes were tired. 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013