Hi all

I bought my first Freelander yesterday . I love the car already but I have spotted my first 'teething problem'! Before I go any further I must just say that I have done my homework, searching, etc and I am not just being lazy asking for help straight away!

When I locked the car up outside home I checked the doors only to find one of the rear doors did not lock when the car was locked. Having done my research I know the locks on a Freelander can be dodgy at times and that they could need replacing. My question is this: when car is locked the locking levers on the interior of the rear doors do move but they do not click home firmly - I sat inside the car, locked the doors, and could see the levers move but both of them needed to be pushed in slightly to make the doors actually lock. The rear seats look like they have hardly ever been used so I expect the locks are pretty stiff through lack of use.

Could someone please tell me if this is likely to be just a case of the locking mechanism needing lubrication or is it the locks that need replacement?

Many thanks in advance.

When I got mine 2 months ago, the rear drivers side back door didn't work, couldn't work out what the heck was broken, in the end turned the child lock on and off a couple of times and it just started working. 2010 Freelander2 TD4_e GS
--
"Any society, any nation, is judged on the basis of how it treats its weakest members -- the last, the least, the littlest."

Also had similar problem recently. Not on the Freelander, but on my other car. Found that manually locking and unlocking with the key a couple of times fixed it.

Worth a try before you start spending money on it.

Had a similar thing with my mother in law's Golf. She complained that the drivers door wouldn't unlock and she was having to scramble across from the passenger side to get in and out. I used the key and driver door opened OK from then on. Lots of Brownie points! 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Quote:

Had a similar thing with my mother in law's Golf. She complained that the drivers door wouldn't unlock and she was having to scramble across from the passenger side to get in and out. I used the key and driver door opened OK from then on. Lots of Brownie points!

My one cured itself when I fitted a new battery. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Thanks for the replies guys, good to know peeps are happy to help out a newbie . I will try out the suggestions tomorrow if I get some time. I have already tried flicking the locking levers locked/unlocked but given that they have probably not been used for years I think a bit of silicone spray might help as well as some more flicking.

The new battery idea is one that I read elsewhere but I just cannot see how that will work when the car starts on the button and the battery seems fine. It might just be worth disconnecting the battery, charging the battery, then connecting it to see if that does anything. Just a bit reluctant to spend well over £100 at the moment on a battery that might not be needed but I will try it if all else fails. Steve D: Did you need to recode the radio or anything else when you changed the battery?

No code for the radio just reset the window's, lower each window fully and hold the switch for a couple of seconds then raise the window and hold the switch again

You don't say where you got the car - if from a dealer take it back and get them to sort it No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

I have tried lots of lubricant and lots of lock handling 'wiggling' but no luck so I am going to have to either replace the lock or if I feel brave I may just dismantle the lock itself and clean up the actual motors. I will post up an update once I have sorted it.

This thread may help you

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16492.html

Pete[/url] 2007 TD4 HSE Auto

Many thanks for that. I had already found it but I do agree it should be very helpful. One of the links in it even shows hows to dismantle and repair the motors themselves so a no cost option I am not sure I will go that far though!