Morning All.
This is a week of firsts. First 4x4, First diesel, and First Freelander.

I must say that I have always found a forum handy when buying a car, but I've learnt more in my first week on here, than I have ever learnt on others.

Thanks to the members on here. I hope you will be gentle with my possibly schoolboy questions. http://www.freel2.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_bow.gif

So, I am a week into my 2007 Td4 SE manual. Absolutely love it. Mileage was a bit high for me, at 157k, but I am used to petrol cars. I feel I had a good deal. Really good condition. Looks like almost every optional extra that was available is on it.

I will get it straight out there, that the main reason for buying it was to tow my caravan....

My first schoolboy question is engine temp. My main commute is only 11 miles. It can be straight run in, or very heavy traffic. Part of that is a slow drive through Bath. The engine doesn't seem to get warm very quickly. I am still in the habit of turning any heating off when I first drive it in the morning, to keep all the heat in the engine. (I upgraded from a LPG converted 3.3l Grand Voyager. The quicker it heats up, the quicker I could afford to run it. http://www.freel2.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_rolling.gif)
This morning it was between 3 and 5 degrees on the drive in, and the needle barely moved. On the petrol, it would be a quarter of the way up within a mile or 2.
Is this normal?
Thanks in advance.
Richard

It sounds like the thermostat could be stuck open, it should get to temperature much sooner than this.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Haven't got a manual yet. Easy to get to?

I have not had to do it for myself but there are a number of write ups in the Technical and Maintenance sections of the forum.

The secret is to search..............

Thermostat Wax element Starts to open 83°C (181°F) Fully open 91°C (200°C)

THERMAL CONTROL MODULE
The module comprises a wax type thermostat with by-pass valve, and an ECT sensor. Two connections on the Left-Hand (LH) side of the module provide the connection for the radiator top and bottom hoses.
The wax-type thermostat locates in the top hose connection to the radiator. A large diameter connection at the RH lower side connects the module to the coolant rail. Two small diameter outlets on the front of the module provide the connection for a supply hose to the heater matrix, and a degas line to the coolant reservoir. The thermal control module promotes rapid warming of the engine to normal operating temperature by closing the return coolant connection from the engine to the radiator. During the engine warming period, the thermostat is closed and the by-pass valve is open. The by-pass port allows coolant to circulate through the closed engine circuit via the coolant pump, climate control heater circuit and EGR cooler. As the coolant temperature increases, the thermostat is opened and the by-pass valve is closed. The hot coolant returning from the engine is allowed to flow from the thermal control module to the radiator, through the open thermostat and top hose connection. Return coolant from the radiator flows through the bottom hose connection to the coolant pump, via the coolant rail. The thermostat commences opening at 83°C (181°F), and is fully open at 91°C (196°F). The ECT sensor is located in the thermal control module and secured in the housing with a clip. The ECT sensor provides an engine coolant temperature signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The signal is used by the ECM to control the operation of the 2 cooling fans. For additional information, refer to: Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel (303-14 Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel, Description and Operation). The ECM also communicates the ECT signal on the high speed Controller Area Network (CAN) bus to the Central Junction Box (CJB). The CJB transmits the ECT signal via the medium speed CAN bus to the instrument cluster, for display on the coolant temperature gauge. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks.

I will be searching more and more. Wasn't sure if it was a component issue, or a diesel engine issue.

Do I understand correctly, that the entire Thermal module is replaced, as opposed to changing the thermostat inside it?

Its called Google

 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks Yorky Bob.

I had found quite a few of those for sale in various places, and having seen a few comments on the forum I was looking into whether the internal thermostat can be replaced for £10ish, as opposed to the complete unit for £45+. Will carry on searching..

You could take it off and go along to a Citroen or Peugeot dealers (or a motor factors) and see if these fit for around £20.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-C-CROSSE...SwgyxWXDbb FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Yeah, did see that one Bob.

Looks (unsurprisingly) to be identical. May be worth putting in the parts X ref listing (wherever that has gone to!) 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

as a simpleton, in my limited experience, (ie 9 cars in 40 years) when I got my first diesel (2007 Honda Civic Type S GT)it was a totally different experience to petrol with regard to warming up, petrol engines seem to warm up quick and diesels slow, my 2nd diesel car is the Freelander HSE 2007 with 156,000 miles on it, and I would say warms up at a similar rate to what the Civic did, not sure if I would jump straight into what you experience as being a fault , maybe just rather a change of vehicle as you did suggest you previously had petrol vehicles . . .

Rnclayton wrote:

Morning All.
My first schoolboy question is engine temp. My main commute is only 11 miles. It can be straight run in, or very heavy traffic. Part of that is a slow drive through Bath. The engine doesn't seem to get warm very quickly.