just been to Tesco with swmbo(well someone has to push the trolley) and bought 3x2lt containers of Castrol Magnatec 5/30 fully synthetic oil stop start c2.cost £9 each,same on fleabay on "offer"at £45.
also Redex diesel system cleaner for £2 bottle.bought 2 of them as well.

Oil on later engines is specified at C1. So hopefully you are not a C1. Having said that if you changed oil at say no more than 6,000 miles instead of the extended service 15,000 miles my guess is all will be well. Even with a C1 oil I would not run to 15,000 miles.

Anyone still in warranty using C2 could face a big bill if the engine packs in.

ACEA C1 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Lowest SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 mPa*s.

ACEA C2 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 mPa*s.
 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

why cant we just go back to the day of oil being oil........ buy a 1L bottle every so often to top up the sump

I miss the simple days of a car being a car instead of a mobile, very sensitive wifi connected computer

Good old Duckhams 20/50 - used it for years  3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

and sawdust in the diff when it gets noisy

tin can screwed to the inner cill and covered in underseal. Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

RogB wrote:

why cant we just go back to the day of oil being oil........ buy a 1L bottle every so often to top up the sump

I miss the simple days of a car being a car instead of a mobile, very sensitive wifi connected computer

I remember those days.

When you were doing well if the car started on a cold morning, when buying another litre of oil was a 2-3 weekly event, when it needed changing at 3,000 to 6,000 mile intervals, when any engine over 40,000 miles old would be black from engine oil leaks and would be lucky to see 100,000 miles without a rebore and when 90 BHP from a 2.0 litre petrol, at 25 MPG, was doing well!

I'll stick with the modern stuff!

yep there's too many that think 5-30 is 5-30 so just go for the cheapest deal. Spec is so important.

VW suffered big time when people were buying the cheaper brands of oil which they thought was the right spec but didn't read the finer points and then wondered why their camshafts simply wore out very prematurely.

I even had a few customers myself that didn't want to pay the exorbitant price for the correct spec oil and supplied their own. I did smile when some time later their engines were failing. They paid the price for failing to take expert advice and just thought I was ripping them off with the oil. Biggest joke was I was actually paying a fortune for very high spec oil so almost no margin but more of an assurance against engine failure.

Only every had to have one sample tested and the oil came out with a stunning report, so much so the guy paid twice for a 2nd report as he was so cock sure it was oil that caused his engine failure.
The air filter was still soaking wet 2 weeks after the event where his wife had driven through deep water and hydraulicked the engine causing conrod failure as i had already suggested had happened.
oil is the heart of an engine and so overlooked Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

yes it is a minefield,mine is a 2010 engine 160bhp,i do approx 10k per year,then a FULL service all of the filters everytime.i have spoken to 2 different motor factors and both have said c2 will be fine and it is the later models 190bhp that need c1.i went for Castrol magnatec stop start as it seemed to fit the bill and is a company with top notch credentials
a lot of manufacturers are happy to let a car go to 1yr or 20k before a service and some filters every other year,this must be aimed at fleet buyers surely.
if I have to I can return the oil so no problem there.
thanks to all for sharing your knowledge and comments
cheers
sandy
ps,my old motorcycle club(the saltbox biggin hill)had a club motto,so many men,so many oppinions.we could should adopt it.
PS TO ABOVE.
just spoke to a very helpfull guy at OPIE OIL and he said it has to be to FORD spec ie Castrol Magnatec stop start 5/30 f/synthetic A5, so returning it and getting correct spec.

So, I bought a tube of Ford spec 913 oil (5W/30 FS meets the performance requirements of the following:
API: SL/CF ACEA: A1/B1 ILSAC- GF-3 BMW LL-98 Ford: WSS-MC2 913A, WSS-MC2 913B) a while back for the TD4e I had at the time but I have just changed to a MY13 SD4 with DPF which according to spec needs ford 934 spec.
My question to the experts is.....what could/would go wrong if I used the 913 spec oil in my engine which says it should need 934 spec? MY13 Santorini Black SD4 HSE

You did ask the question Have a good read, Part 3 is quite riveting.

https://www.astm.org/DIGITAL_LIBRARY/STP/S...reword.pdf FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

MY13 is a CI oil with low Saps. Its all about the carbon and DPF. You could go off spec and change oil every 6,000 miles but I would go no more than 12,000 with correct oil.

http://www.micksgarage.com/blog/understanding-engine-oil/ FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Yorky Bob wrote:

You did ask the question Have a good read, Part 3 is quite riveting.

https://www.astm.org/DIGITAL_LIBRARY/STP/S...reword.pdf

Er, no thanks.  MY13 Santorini Black SD4 HSE

Yorky Bob wrote:

MY13 is a CI oil with low Saps. Its all about the carbon and DPF. You could go off spec and change oil every 6,000 miles but I would go no more than 12,000 with correct oil.

http://www.micksgarage.com/blog/understanding-engine-oil/

What I'm struggling with is why the oil makes a difference to the DPF? MY13 Santorini Black SD4 HSE