Hi all. I have had my new F2 for 4 weeks now and the brakes have been bled twice already and tons of air 'removed' from the system. The Fluid is not leaking and seems to remain at a constant level. The master cylinder was replaced approx Jul 16.

A very kind man just charged me £80.00 ( last Thursday ) to bleed the brakes and run diagnostic on all ABS etc.

Guess what...the pedal is rapidly approaching the floor again.

This car has full landy history and has been maintained at whatever the cost...have loads of receipts for MOT tyres etc and a couple of other bits.. Nothing major.

These brakes are confusing the hell out of me.

What can I check and how do I do it.

Firstly if you were charged £80 only last week go back and ask him the question (for free) and / or a re-bleed.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Who bled the brakes the first two times ? Also did the guy last week bleed the brakes or do a total fluid change ? 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) and should be tested for this phenomenon at least every 2 years and replaced if found wanting. MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

wow...questions. First time the brakes were...just bled as far as I know. Second time the guy said....they couldnt just be bled and as such i assumed he has done something else along with allegedly doing something with the ABS. I suspect I will be going back to him as it seems that bleeding the brakes and plugging it in should have been cheaper. Either that or he has completely something up.

What i cant understand is why it just suddenly goes wrong with no warning especially when it has been so well cared for and maintained.

What else can go wrong.

I can bleed the bloody things myself every weekend if needed.

Anyway, you have had the brakes looked at last week, for £80 at an independent garage I would expect that you should have had a full fluid change. If it wasn't then As Tenet says brake fluid is hygroscopic and this would give you failure as the brakes heat up. So that leaves you with the question " when did I last have a full fluid change" as you can bleed the brakes as much as you want , but if the fluid is outside it's wet boiling point it will never perform.

If you have had the car for only 4 weeks did you buy it from a dealer ? If you did I'd be straight back there, if you bought it privately I'd be straight back there it's not for for purpose. 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

just a thought, is there a brake rubbing and getting very hot, or any way the pipes are touching some thing hot? Common sense isn't very common.
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2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

From the workshop manual:

If any components upstream of the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), including the HCU itself are replaced, the brake system must be bled using Land Rover approved diagnostic equipment. This will ensure that all air is expelled from the new component(s).

Basically if you get air in the ABS modulator it can only be bled out using the SDD diagnostic system (or maybe some of the aftermarket diagnostic systems can do it? I don't know...)

Could be related to your problem? 2008 Freelander 2 HSE Si6 Black/Black - Hers
2009 Jaguar XKR 4.2 S/C Portfolio
2005 Jaguar XJR 4.2 S/C Black/Cranberry
2005 Jaguar X-Type 3.0L AWD - Gone

Are you 100% sure the Master Cylinder has been changed ? It may be even then be a fault on a new one giving seal creep (not sure if that is just my own made up description).

I you pump does the pedal height come back up ? If yes, then just hold your foot and push for a while, if it then the pedal slowly goes down then that is my seal creep and I would be always first ruling out the master cylinder. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Good point. i think what you are referring too is called 'bypass'. I had that onmy old FL1 cluth master cylinder. makes sense to check that although not sure how to. Maybe a new question.