if so maybe opening reservoil of coolant cap and running engine get the air away.

Yes that is an old trick to bleed out air, you need to warm it up to running temperature with the Rad Cap off (take care as water can burn) but also remember to open up the car heater fully (water one). I say water one as you may also have a supplementary oil fuelled heater in Finland.

As for matching up a thermostat:

http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/coolant-th...083G1.html FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Radiator cap? There isn't such thing far as i know? i suppose you mean coolant reservoir cap

And you mean by fully, that i put heat to max inside to cabin to allow coolant water flow

thanks for link for thermostat, far as i see its no matter who is manufacture of it, they are same


i have been asked garages to do the change, they answer is about 270 - 370euros, very expensive!!

I have also Flat Caps.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I found SLIME on coolant reservoil !!! maybe this is cause of stucked thermostat. Should i do system flush?

Oh.

Hope the cylinder head and / or the oil cooler are OK. You may need to do a coolant pressure test (that is what we did years ago anyways) if you can't see any obvious reason for this. Also check for water or sludge in your oil or a very high oil level.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic26031.htm...er+failure

Good Luck. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

As mine experiencing over cooling as well i found various manufacturers making the Thermostat for Freelander 2 (PN:LR001312) ranging from 40 to 80 euro.

The task of replacement seems easy enough but before i do it myself can some one help in regards of post thermostat replacement?
What i need to do in order to re-fill the cooling water and bleed the system?

I logged a 50 min drive started with highway and after that inner city.
It seems when i start the car from cold it will heat up fast all the way to 83 deg then the thermostat will be open.
While on the high way the temperature of coolant is good in average but when i go in to the city with low load (car is mostly in 1500 rpm) temperature will drop as far as 70.
I am wondering why my car is not reaching 83 deg after first warm up, i would expect that inside the city it will warm up but it is actually cooling down.

Click image to enlarge

I have a functional thermostat, and, in this time of the year, with 0 degrees Celsius average temperatures, my engine temperatures are the same.
As my engine temperature gauge is set to show the engine temperature in a linear manner, I don't need to hook up a diag. equipment to confirm it and I generally see the engine temperature needle just a little over 70 degrees and varies there very very little.

Thank Alex, mine was used to be spot on on the middle but recently started to move a bit down and up, maybe it is the circuit that shouls smooth the needle which is the problem?

By default/factory, the needle is moving linearly from 50 to 75 (25 degrees), which means from lower position to middle.
Then it stays on middle between 75 and 113 deg Celsius.
Then again is moving linearly from 113 to 118 (only 5 degrees), which means middle to upper position.
You see, quite a non linear evolution, seen as a whole.

That small up and down you are talking about in your case, I suppose, is from 70 to 75 degrees.
The "smoothing" you are talking about is made in software.

Alex, what do you think on my case that when i use Webasto 20-30mins, then i start engine and about 30 seconds - 1 min after starting i put my hand to hose which goes to radiator after Thermostat, it starts to warm and the temperature of car needle is still at bottom. My opinion is that thermostat is leaking abit

From what I know, the thermostats are designed to leak a bit, for bleeding purposes....

My car now reached a new low of 68 C in the middle of a drive, it will recover if i push the acceleration, temperatures are not that cold around zero deg C

If it was at the end of a downhill, with a lot of engine brakes, it's possible.
During engine brakes, there is no fuel injected and therefore the engine temps can drop quite a lot because of the air cooling effect.
But for your peace of mind, you can change the thermostat, or exchange it for a while with one that you know it's OK and see...

My thermostat was 1cm open, thats reason why overcooling. + done total system flush, it was very brown cooling water!








Ps. we got here -20 but car shows -14, a litle bit hars starts!