Hi, I'm new to this forum and was wondering if anyone could shine some light to a problem I'm having with my 2007 freelander 2 2.2 td4 that has 105k on the clock.

I replaced the fuel filter and went to switch on the low pressure pump not thinking that all fuel would have run out back to the tank.

The engine is winding over strong however the injectors are not being sent the open signal from the PCM. Also the LP fuel pump is not priming the system. The motor does receive power but doesn't stay on for and more than 5 seconds, I have fitted a jumper wire to the feed and earth terminals and the motor does run however no fuel comes out the rpfeed pipe before the filter housing.

I have had the following fault codes. (However all only appeared when battery voltage was bellow 11v)

P1259 - immobiliser power control module signal error.
P0183 - Fuel temp sensor A circuit high input.
P02e9 - Diesel intake air flow position sensor circuit high
P0341 - Camshaft sensor A circuit range/performance.

None of these codes have re-appeared since charging the battery.

So this leaves me the following questions........

1 is the immobiliser stopping the signal from the PCM

2 is the Cam shaft sensor used by the PCM to open the injectors or is the the crankshaft sensor? (Crankshaft sensor is counting revs)

3 how long should my low pressure pump stay on for?

4 if rail pressure had not been achieved would the PCM open the injectors.

Any help is much appreciated.

Have you primed the fuel filter with a tool such as this one..

Install the special tool between the fuel supply
line and the fuel filter.
Special Tool(s): 310-163
Prime the fuel filter by squeezing the hand
pump several times until the pump is hard.

Yeh have managed to purge all air from the system.

Like I say the injectors aren't recieving any signal to open from the PCM am wondering if it's an immobiliser fault or if the HP pump can't get the required pressure due to insufficient feed from the low pressure causing the PCM not to open the injectors. (Not sure if that's how the system works tho)

Thanks for the speedy reply.

Don't have too much experience with FL2's yet, but is seems there is no LP fuel pump, only one that distributes fuel between the two halves of the tank.
So when replacing the fuel filter, it has to be filled with diesel manually and the air in the piping bled as described in a previous post, othervise no start.
By not doing so and attempting to start, air will have entered the HP pump, rail and injectors which will cause the engine not to start.
It seems unlikely that immobilizer or any other sensor would have failed at the same time as the filter change.

It's just that the injectors are receiving no signal voltage at the wiring plug so it's never going to start. The air has been bled from the system using the hand held suction pump described in previous post and winding the engine over cracking the injection pipes to remove air still with no success.

However you say that the in tank pump is only for moving fuel from one side of the tank to another and not for purging the system?

have u tried cracking the unions off at each injector and getting some to turn it over to see if fuel is spitting out ( might need to hook jump leads up to another vehicle)

They pump in the tank does not and cannot push fuel out of the tank

It is used to transfer fuel from one side of the saddle tank to the other.

The high pressure pump pulls the fuel all the way from the tank, any air or air leak and it will not pull fuel.
No fuel, = no fuel pressure, at that point why would the system operate the injectors? Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Excellent Andy! just what I'm needing to know. Will get on the case tomorrow and let everyone know the outcome.

Thanks

Quick update the timing had jumps a tooth or so. Obviously if the crank and cam sensors don't agree the PCM shuts down the injectors to prevent potential damage.

In process of fitting timing belt kit and water pump.

Trav. how did you get on with finding the non starting problem?
I have recently carried out a exhaust cam replacement and cant get the engine to start. The fuel system is free of air. The cam sensor has been renewed, fuel pressure is in excess of 4000+psi on cranking.
The engine will run briefly on aero-start. I know the valve timing is correct. I suspect I have no opening voltage signal to the injectors but await an oscilloscope current clamp arriving so I can check for voltage/current pulses. All injectors have been resistance checked and are within the correct ohms range. Crank sensor is working ok as the rev counter and ODB 2 reader shows cranking speed. There are no fault codes showing. Battery voltage/current is good when cranking. Fuel is fresh. The throttle valve on the inlet manifold has also been renewed.
I'm interested to know what might cause the loss of signal to the injectors.
One thing I have not done is test the pressure holding or leak past of the injectors but the engine ran fine until the exhaust cam failed. I bought the vehicle from a friend after the cam failed so can be confident it was running ok up to that point however it was partly stripped by a garage to find the broken cam fault. Thanks, The dog.

My timing was out a couple of teeth however I was a bit rough taking the target ring off and damaged it. spent a good couple of days double checking the timing marks afterwards.

The Crankshaft sensor target ring may have gotten a knock when changing the timing belt. it wont take much to cause damage to it even the slightest knock will do it as it only is a rubber coating. The rev counter will still work as the sensor is still picking up the teeth, but if its got any abnormalities it wont be able to recognise where TDC is and will stop the injectors from opening.

You will see it in the scope readings quite blatantly, or take off the target ring off and have a look at it.

if it is the Ring........

It has been superseded with a new part which Land rover say requires a new pulley and crank sensor. I just fobbed that off and made the old ring into a spacer. and has been ok ever since. Off the top of my head the Ring was about £140 and the pulley kit with sensor was about £180. don't quote me on that tho.

Any idea why the timing jumped Trav?

If this procedure to change a belt needs you to buy locking tools to lock the engine/cam and everything behind the crank pulley is so sensitive it may be cheaper to just let a LR Indie get on and do it. After all you wont change a belt twice in my view as the rest of the vehicle may well have failed by then. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

The original fault was the timing had slipped Bob. Not that it slipped after me changing it and it was all correct locking pins were used. Think it may have been just stretch on the belt as it was coming on for the 10 year limit.

The modifications mad to the pulley and crank sensor were a change in manufacture and not due to technical problem acording to the man at Land Rover.

Trev and any other readers It's a couple of months or more since I replaced the cam & belts but cant recall how the crankshaft position reluctor ring gets timed to the crankshaft for T.D.C. position I don't recall it being keyed to the crankshaft or having timing marks on it could you refresh my memory on this. After reading your recent post I'm thinking I've now fingered my non start problem.
I previously thought the injector timing was taken from the camshaft position sensor only.

It has a key onto the crankshaft and injector timing is controlled from if. Also if the cam and crank do not corispond the PCM may cut out injector pulse.