When I changed my oil I wasn't impressed by the sump plug design in that the plug is flush with the sump base and therefore there is still a level of oil up to the thread insert that won't come out.
.
I aquired a sort of pipe cleaner out of the Grandaughters craft box and used it as a wick. An astounding volume of oil then dribbled out!!!!!
.
Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

fredastaire wrote:

May I ask if you can comment and advise for the Haldex what the 'Active on demand filler plug' is and do we need to purchase one or is there an alternative?

thanks Pab, I guess that the instruction descriptive has been translated hence reading the odd English script it seemed as if it was some sort of service tool bit.
.
Kind regards from Fred.
.

Steve D wrote:

Had mine just over a year now. Did a full service when I got it with around 67,000 miles on it. Changed just the oil again at around 72,000 (I get my oil/parts for cost or less at work and do my own repairs ). Changing the oil and filter again tomorrow with just over 75,000 miles on the clock and I've got a tin of engine flush to try out as well. Going to give it a nice long drain while I fit a new set of front pads to try to get rid of my low-speed squeeeeeeeek under light braking so we'll see how clean it is when I put the new oil in. My repair regime might be different if I was paying full price for parts plus labour though.

Used the flush - ran engine for 15 minutes. Drained oil and left it draining for about 5 hours while I got on with other stuff. Filled with oil and it is that clean, I had trouble seeing the oil on the dipstick. Could be the flush, could be the long drain off time, could be that this is the 3rd oil change in 9000 miles. All I know is the oil in the engine is as clear as it came out of the oil container.

Brake squeal: Fitted new pads. Still squeaking. Gonna fit new discs now - just waiting for them to be delivered to me.

Oh, and I got it MOT'd while I was at it - free of charge too on account of the work I put the MOT stations way.

Total expenditure so far on the service, pads and MOT - £0.00 That's right, all!

Might have to pay for my discs though.  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

[quote="alex_pescaru"]

"Manual Transmission/Front Differential - Castrol MTF97309, LR Part No. LR006247, 1.9 liters
Transfer Case - BOT 118 PLUS 75W90, 0.75 liters
Haldex - Statoil SL01-301, LR Part no. LR003136, 0.65 liters
Read Differential - Castrol EPX 80W90, LR Part no. LR003156, 0.7 liters"

Hi, I'm planning on doing all of the above plus an engine oil and oil filter change. I presume it is good practice to replace the Haldex filter when doing the oil on that item, are there any other items I should be changing for any of these apart from the plug washers?
Cheers.

Bump, and also what type of engine flush should be used?

No, just the washers.
If you dismantle the Haldex, maybe a few o-rings.
I, for one, never used an engine flush. Just regularly changed the oil and the filter.
The new oil has detergents in it that degrade after a few hundred miles.

Thanks Alex, not planning on dismantling yet just changing fluids, filters and washers. Mileage is 73k so I don't have to change all fluids I just think it is a good proactive measure that is (hopefully) quite easy to do.

Hi, I take this old thread to ask you two things:

1) In the manual gearbox oil change (and mine has manual transmission) I saw that there is only one plug where discharges and recharges the oil, but also with a pump can I be able to suck all the old oil? Inside the gear box, it's possible to introduce a small rubber tube until the bottom?

2) I saw the figure to understand where is the drain plug / loading of a transfer case, but I do not understand exactly where it is! Can you help me with any suggestions?

Thanks so much!!!

P.S. my FL2 has about 100,000 miles and I believe that these oils have never been replaced ...
yesterday I replaced the rear differential oil!

The transfer case is behind the engine, connected with the gearbox and the main driveshaft.

Note to self change of oils are due before the end of November, as there ever been a pictorial how to on these changes ?

alex_pescaru wrote:

Ionut wrote:

Can you tell me also how can I check the oil level for differential, gear box, etc. and, if needed, how to top up and what lubricants (oil) is needed for each part?

Manual Transmission/Front Differential - Castrol MTF97309, LR Part No. LR006247, 1.9 liters
Transfer Case - BOT 118 PLUS 75W90, 0.75 liters
Haldex - Statoil SL01-301, LR Part no. LR003136, 0.65 liters
Read Differential - Castrol EPX 80W90, LR Part no. LR003156, 0.7 liters


Manual Gearbox/Front Differential Oil Fill/Check


Transfer Case Oil Fill/Check

Click image to enlarge

Haldex Oil Fill/Check

Rear Differential Oil Fill/Check

Once again marked for reference

One year as past where as it gone, and i still need to do this job, message to myself pull your finger out

Changing the engine oil is not as bad as some make out.

Jack up, drop the undertray, drain the engine oil, undo the filter cap with swivel 27mm spanner. There is plenty of room as you can push the big pipe over a bit and get even a large hand like mine up to the cap. Filter can be removed without oil running down your arm. More oil will drain once the filter is remove so leave the drain plug out till new filter is in place.





 Jules