So my FL2 58 plate is starting to show signs of age. Admittedly it's done 136k but garage bills are starting to mount up!

Anyway, I've taken it twice as there's some creaking when turning slowly. Once the lower suspension arm was replaced, and the second time was a rear shock absorber leaking.
Now it still creaks but more worryingly, under acceleration and most noticeably at 50-70mph the car pulls right under power and then pulls left when coming off power. Braking doesn't have the same effect.

I'm trying to think of possible causes, part of me is assuming certain mounts are going (engine or control bushes etc) but could it be torsion bar related, or hub bearings?


Thanks guys, it's been a while but still the first port of call  2008 FL2 TD4 XS Zermatt Silver, Manual
2010 Jaguar XF

I'd agree - engine/sub frame mountings seem most likely. I think I remember someone else having a problem and explaining how to change them - try a search? Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

You are experiencing "Torque Steer"
I lifted this from a US website but it will give you an indication of what to look for - start with the cheap and obvious - good luck:

CONDITIONS THAT CAN INCREASE TORQUE STEER

Any or all of the following conditions can aggravate an existing torque steer problem as well as cause it to appear in a FWD vehicle that previously didn't experience torque steer:

Unequal front tire inflation pressure side to side

Unequal camber (the car will pull towards the side with the greatest amount of positive camber).

Toe misalignment (both static toe or toe-out when steering).

Unequal caster side-to-side

Incorrect ride height (nose too high).

Misalignment between the transaxle, driveshafts and chassis.

Front tires with unequal wear.

Loose or worn wheel bearings

Looseness or worn parts in the steering linkage or rack.

Worn or loose control arm bushings

Control arm bushings that are too soft and allow too much movement under load

Excessive front wheel offset (deep dish aftermarket wheels)

Rear axle misalignment

A dragging brake caliper on one side

For that to happen, something on the suspension will be almost hanging off. My guess is the wishbone inner bushes. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

A flat tire, it may not look too flat. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Just at the bottom?  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Just at the bottom?

Nope Steve, remember Lightwater is in OZ so it will be at the top.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current