Whilst changing a wheel, I struggled to get the new wheel on as the trolley jack I was using started to max out. I thought it was on the hub and and 4 of the wheel nuts screwed on OK. However the 5th nut wouldn't torque up no matter how much I turned the wrench and it finally dawned on me that it was cross-threaded.

After sorting the jack and taking the wheel off I could see the first 3 threads were well out of line. The wheel studs are non-replaceable on the FL2 and I didn't fancy shelling out for a replacement hub, so what to do?

A die or die nut wouldn't fix it as the die would just follow the angle of the distorted threads, so I googled the problem and found this tool: http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5216/

This uses a clever split die which you put on the undamaged part of the stud together with a collet which enables you to wind the die back over the damaged thread and swage it back to its original position.

Ordered the kit off the Bay at a good price and bingo - job done. It really saved my bacon.

That's a clever no nonsense bit of kit  No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

That sounds really useful. Last year my wife bought me a nut splitter set for Xmas. Perhaps I will get one of these this year. (or is she trying to tell me something?) 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Metric thread file may help.

You can normally replace the studs

Surely you could have bashed it out and found one that matched? Are they the same as 'normal' type studs? Wouldn't one from a Kuga fit - I thought they shared the same running gear? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

That's a handy little gadget George. I'll store that bit of knowledge for a rainy day. 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

good tip tx Pre-Production "000" Td4 FL2 in Santorini Black on Jet Black and Blue...

That's sorted a brown trouser moment!

When I built my swing-away spare wheel carrier, I used the Ford equivalent hub, as the LR one was too expensive.

To the point. The Ford version has studs which are splined into the hub face. I have actually taken two out and put them back.

Question ....... are we sure the LR wheel studs are not removable ?? ........ ( I don't know )

Looking at these pictures of the front hub, the studs just knock out like normal studs. As per my earlier post. Nothing special.

Click image to enlarge

As I stated in my original post: The wheel studs are non-replaceable on the FL2

Pleased to hear that this info has helped a fellow FL2 owner.

George

Does typing in BOLD ....... make it true.

Thanks George B you are lifesaver, just had my alloys refurbished powdercoated etc and the idiots cross threaded on the stud tips but fortunately had the common sense not force it on. Just ordered one of these 5216 Kits on EBAY.

Which die is the correct one? M12 x 1.25 (spare die part No;0052) M12 x 1.5 (spare die part No;0053) M14 x 1.5 (spare die part No;0054)

GeorgeB wrote:

Whilst changing a wheel, I struggled to get the new wheel on as the trolley jack I was using started to max out. I thought it was on the hub and and 4 of the wheel nuts screwed on OK. However the 5th nut wouldn't torque up no matter how much I turned the wrench and it finally dawned on me that it was cross-threaded.

After sorting the jack and taking the wheel off I could see the first 3 threads were well out of line. The wheel studs are non-replaceable on the FL2 and I didn't fancy shelling out for a replacement hub, so what to do?

A die or die nut wouldn't fix it as the die would just follow the angle of the distorted threads, so I googled the problem and found this tool: http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5216/

This uses a clever split die which you put on the undamaged part of the stud together with a collet which enables you to wind the die back over the damaged thread and swage it back to its original position.

Ordered the kit off the Bay at a good price and bingo - job done. It really saved my bacon.

Think I found the lug correct size for my year and plate by checking this site

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/land-rover/freelander-2/2007/


Lug Size
ISO standard Ex.: M12 x 1.25
Nominal diameter (mm) x pitch (mm)
UN-series Ex.: 9/16" - 18 UNF
Thread size (in) - thread pitch
UNF - Unified National Fine Thread

You need the M14 x 1.5 die.