Many thanks for this update Chris - also thanks for the tip regarding a micro switch. Not being a competent electrician I think I may have to resort to having a garage carry out this work but I will at least have an idea of what should be done and bring this information to their attention. I also need to figure out how to fix them. I had in mind to insert an extra strengthening metal strip under the part of the bodywork which runs directly under the grill on which the lights would be sited, in order to prevent vibration - hopefully!
Also, it's a matter of choosing which lights would be the best. I don't want anything too large, ideally something with a diameter of 5" to 6" maximum. There are several on the market but the reports on them vary widely and I don't want to go to all this trouble and expense and find the result is not worth it. Is anyone out there who can recommend a product ?

I have been thinking about a pair of driving lights, but have not really had a thorough look at how to fix them at this stage. But it looks like some complex brackets are needed to make them ridged.

I have narrowed it down to rectangular, hella or Narva most likely in halogen. I would prefer round but there is not a lot of space, depth, so the front of the light is still back from the bumper (not forward of the bumper) and lower than the bonnet (Australia NSW regulations) so you don't see the top of the lights (blocking view of road).

Halogen has a much better CRI index. Also don't want an expensive bit of kit on the front that is more likely to be knocked off.

I still have to stick in the car, which have been sitting around for a few weeks, a pair of Philips HB3 9005xv 3350K globes. They are supposed to be 100% brighter. So the inverse square output over the distance means the light should be a bit brighter! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Kickin’ 70, Had you been local to me (Fylde Coast Lancashire) I could have talked you through the wiring.

When wiring my last MY2007 the most difficult job was feeding the wires (two) through the bulkhead for the Aux Light Override Switch. I managed to get them through the bonnet release cable grommet behind the glove box. If you have any problems feel free to PM me. Electrics I’m OK with, it’s the electronics I’m a little rusty with.

I’m going to take the bumper off in the next few weeks (need to remove and spray the silver trim strip around the grille as somehow it’s got badly scratched), so I will measure up for brackets and will modify my existing sketch on my gallery if anyone interested in making some for the later face-lift models.

All the best,

Chris Gone:
2002 FL1 TD4 GS Zambezi Silver
2007 FL2 TD4 GS Izmir Blue

Luckily I have a local supplier that sell stainless steel. I have bought a few metres of 3 x 20 mm for my roof rack modifications. I feel that 25 x 4 is a touch light for brackets based on my experience with 3 x 20, maybe 30 x 5 would be a bit better. But it is cheap enough to experiment with. You can belt the stuff over with a heavy hammer in a heavy duty vice.

If you are tapping holes in stainless get the drill size right, keep the drill bit cool dipping it in water & lubricate any tapping with some oil (cutting oil is better but any oil is a lot better than nothing).

My local prices.
http://www.brookvalestainless.com.au/flat-...h=56_58_59


Use Nylock nuts on bolts. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I don't think you'd need to worry too much about the additional current a relay would add to the existing main beam circuit, given that it's capable of 4 or 5 amps to drive a 55W bulb, an additional 0.1 amp or so is insignificant.

On the question of mounting the lamps, a friend of mine added a couple of driving lamps to the front of his Disco 3, he had them mounted on brackets behind the grille with suitably placed and finished holes cut in the grille so the fronts of the lights came through and were more or less flush with the outer surface, it made a very nice OEM look to it.

There were some pictures of the install on the Disco3 site but I can't find the topic now.

I may be wrong here, but the headlight bulb is single filament and is always on once headlights are selected at the switch, the main beam being controlled by the shutter assembly internal to the headlight unit (MY2013 and on). On selecting main beam, +12V is sent to the shutter actuator via the electronics / control unit MOSFET and opens the shutter(s) fully. What I’m interested in seeing is the current draw on the shutter actuator motor. I would imagine this would be far less than the 4.5Amp from conventional a 55 / 60 Watt headlight bulb. It may be, as mentioned, insignificant additional current, but worth an investigation before anything gets fried.  Gone:
2002 FL1 TD4 GS Zambezi Silver
2007 FL2 TD4 GS Izmir Blue

It is a single filament. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

There are two single filament lamps each side, one for dipped and one for main, switched by two conventional relays with the supply protected by a 15A fuse.

Maybe on earlier models, but my MY13 uses the HB3 globes & they have 1 filament for low & high beam. Parking lights are LED. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Ahh right, sorry my mistake, I don't have the wiring diagrams for the later one.

Chris, Thanks for all info and yes, had I been a little closer to your location I would have taken you up on your offer. Regarding the filament issue, yes I can confirm they are single as I have already replaced the headlight bulbs in an attempt to improve the lighting - sadly with little effect!
I have made enquiries and found a mechanical electrical engineer company who will fix and wire the lights - for £100 ! Er . . . I guess that's the going rate - but I shall bot be rushing to get this done until I've made further enquiries.
I'll keep this forum updated

Upgrade to xenons as the light is far far superior MY14 Kahn Converted Dynamic - Fuji White Ebony/Pimento Interior
MY15 Xenon Headlight Conversion

MY17 RRS SVR - Estoril Blue Cirrus/Ebony 🪣💺’s

I hadn't realised the later headlamps were so poor (non Xenon) seems such a retrograde step from the pervious set up

For a while I was left wondering what the issue was as I found the halogen headlights on ours were quite good, now I've read the thread I understand the problem.

As for spot lamps I wondered if these would be suitable, I thought the oval style might suit the Freelander

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HELLA-Comet-FF-3...SwmUdUV6Xf

Although a Xenon upgrade might be the best solution

I think I’ll check with my insurance (Direct Line) before doing any modifications just in case they want mega bucks to amend the policy. Some companies do, some don’t as we’ve seen on this forum before. Liverpool Victoria (my insurer at the time) didn’t bother when I fitted driving lights to my old MY2007, they just made a note of it on the policy. Gone:
2002 FL1 TD4 GS Zambezi Silver
2007 FL2 TD4 GS Izmir Blue

Thanks guys for the continued input regarding this issue.
1. LR Nut - Yes I agree upgrading to the Xenon would be preferable and better - it's just the cost involved
2. Rimini HSE - I think you are right those lamps do look good - I shall take that on board when making a final decision. Thank you.
3.Chris, thanks also for the tip regarding notifying the insurance company. I had not even considered that. I would have thought that anything that improves the safety in driving would have automatically been accepted, but then again with insurance companies being what they are I guess it's better to be safe than sorry.