OK, thanks for that.

Whilst it's correct in the dimension displayed, what it doesn't convey is that the connector is actually between the block and the boost hose from the turbo to the inlet manifold; i.e. as inaccessible as the glow plugs (picture).

So how do dealers (and LRA for that matter) test glow plugs without pulling the whole intake system (and fuel filter) off?

I checked continuity from the glow plug relay and it's showing that at least one of my glow plugs is still alive (well, 16 ohms on my cheap digital multimeter).

Could the cold start problem we had be related to the car not having had a s/w update to counter the "not turning the glow plugs on" bug mentioned on various other pages? If we get the problem again (pretty soon given the weather forecasts here), am I safe just to pull the relay and check the voltages across the relay control circuit to see if the glow plug relay is being turned on to confirm this?[/url]

Maybe the connector is easilly accesible from under the car, after removing the engine shield. I haven't studied the problem until now...

I also don't get the message on the display when starting the car and also the time from pushing the button until cranking is very small on my car. Abnormal small...
But I am used to start it in the two steps procedure, as discussed.
First push without brake/clutch, listen for the glow plug relay to disconnect the plugs, then push the start a second time, this time with brake/clutch.
So, in other words, I've learned the sound of the glow plug relay...

When I was curious about the glow plug times, I've connected a small buzzer between fuse 1 from engine compartent box and ground. According with schematics, fuse 1 is the glow plug return signal to engine ECU.

I've learned the followings, when doing the two steps startup:
1. Above 5ºC, at startup, the glow plugs doesn't get energized before cranking.
2. At 5ºC, the glow plugs gets energized for about 8 seconds before the relay disconnect them.
3. Below 5ºC, the time is extended with about 1 second/ºC. For example, 13 seconds on 0ºC, and so on.
4. After the engine was started, the glow plugs are energized again, until the engine coolant reaches about 20ºC.

So, initially I've though that above 5ºC the glow plugs aren't ever used.
Wrong!
They are used according with point 4 above, probably to help burning as perfectly as possible, during warm-up period, in order to reduce pollution.

Last edited by alex_pescaru on 15th Dec 2010 8:27 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I'm pretty sure that you can't get to the connector from any direction without removing the inlet manifold. It is right up underneath the manifold and the Y side which goes to the glow plugs is fixed to a bracket.

I like the buzzer idea, I think that I might try that.

Are there any easy places to get the feed into the car, or do you just something loud (old car horn ?) under the bonnet?

A plain an simple 12V buzzer, left in the engine bay area, between battery and windshield.
It is quite discrete but loud enough for me, to be heard from inside the car.
The part number of the buzzer I've used is BPT-14X, it's a PCB mount buzzer.
You can Google for it and can be obtained at any electronic parts store.

Hi all. Seems like this thread has gone cold.(bad pun)
Just returned from a ski trip to the French alps and, you guessed it,starting probs! Had my Freelander since Nov 2011 so its been through a couple of cold spells without any trouble,having started with the pause, crank method stated in some of the posts. Sooo I believe the EMS to be functioning as it should, or at least it had previous to this trip.
The truck was parked in an underground park so temperatures not too low,now the strange part. Mid week decided to see if it would go, not wanting any surprises ! Can't remember exact events but sure there wasn't a "Glow-plug" pause but lots of cranking accompanied by white smoke. I stopped the cranking and removed key,went through same a couple more times and then she started but with an uneven tickover for a few seconds. Strange thing was I thought the temp read 4deg NOT minus but then I didn't have my glasses on. Decided to give it a run and go play in the snow while I could, no more issues. On the day we left I had the same starting problem and outside it was only minus 1 ambient. Great drive home etc.Monday morning up for work and zero deg with frost so ready for probs having read some of this thread Sunday
Tried the two stage method and she started without a pause or splutter !! I am now baffled and hoping for more freezing conditions to further the experiment. PS Tank still half full of French diesel so that thought of poor fuel fell flat?
Sorry for the long post but thought all this relevant. http://www.freel2.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_thumbs.gif Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Hi All,


I need to change my glowplugs too, can you pls help me whether i need one with 'afterglow'?
I thought to pu now the Bosch duraterm high speed glows...

Anybody has any concrete experience with any types may be?
Pal

Hi Pal

I fitted NGK YE08 around a year ago.They are something of course you don't miss until cold weather, which I haven't experienced much at home.
However, my trip to the Alps last winter went without starting issues, which I experienced the previous year
So,as regards how long the parts will last in your climate I can't help,but I do know that they work for me.
Good luck  Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Hi Soul Fan,


Thanks for your feedback...!do you may be know if afterglow function is also there?
Pal

Hi again, as far as I'm aware the "afterglow"you refer to is controlled by the vehicles ecu at a reduced voltage,not by the glow-plug ?
Hope this helps.  Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Hello Alex and everybody,
I'd like to check with you since I think I'm having issues with my glow plugs.
Two times this year I went skiing; in one of them I had issues starting my freely at -15 C (I was never able to start it, I had it towed down and then it worked), and this week same issues with only -5 C.
I then realized I had battery issues (low CCA), so I changed it. But again, it was very difficult to start it at -5 C. I had to try it several times, white smoke, until it finally started.
I do see glow plug indicator to turn on, and I get the message that says waiting for glow plugs to crank the engine. I don't see any errors when scanning it.
So, would it be correct to assume that at least one of them is not working?
I saw the previous comments and it looks like it's not no easy to test them for continuity.
Shall I go ahead and have them changed?

Thanks!
Juan

Hi Juan, the problem you experienced sounds very much like mine. I wasn't able to do a fault read out but during cranking the glowplug indicator on the dashboard would illuminate.
However when I eventually changed the plugs 3 of them where faulty

From this experience I would say even when the indicator illuminates this doesn't necessarily mean your plugs are glowing! !

Hopefully this helps  Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Thank you Soul Fan! I'll have my gow plugs replaced soon.
The only pending task would be to check fuse 4 and the relay that commands the plugs.
Does anybody know how to check them? I removed the cover of the fuse box in the engine compartment, but fuses 3, 4 and 5 seem to be covered by a small plastic, I don't realize how to remove it to see the actual fuse.
Idea on this?
And also, how can I confirm the relay is working?

Thank you folks!