I have upgraded the headlight bulbs on my FR2, but they still seem to lack the "oomph" on both dipped - and
especially main beam - that I have had on previous cars. I'm thinking about adding some driving lights but do not want to put them on a "bull bar" - just directly onto the front in front of the grill.
Two questions:
1 Has anyone done this / have they any photos of the finished item?
2. What problems, if any, did you have.in fitting especially electrics?

I have attached a photo of what I would envisage they would look like.

If I were to fit them, I would probably get them wired to come on automatically when I switched to main beam. I had this configuration on an XR2 way back in my youth and they were fantastic.

Any thoughts guys / guyesses?

Hi, I know your not looking for an all out bull bar, but Petrolhead has a lamp bar for sale,maybe it's more what your looking for?
Dave DAVE.

Thanks for your quick reply Dave. I have taken a quick look at what Petrolhead is offering but I really don't want the lights to protrude out in front of the bumper - well as least as possible.

The HB3 bulbs are crap as its a single filament bulb that remains on all the time. On dim beam the bulb is partially covered with an electronic shutter (giving the dip lights) and on full beam the electronic shutter full retracts providing the full beam. Extra lights will come off use but for dip beam driving the lights will still be poor. I upgraded my headlights to xenons which is something you might want to consider. MY14 Kahn Converted Dynamic - Fuji White Ebony/Pimento Interior
MY15 Xenon Headlight Conversion

MY17 RRS SVR - Estoril Blue Cirrus/Ebony 🪣💺’s

Thanks for the info LR. As I mentioned I have upgraded the bulbs already -link below, but they still don't seem to "cut the cake". OK, Ok I know age comes into it but even compared with my previous car (Chevy Cruze) they still seem weak.

Bulbs now installed: http://www.hids-direct.co.uk/mtec-12v-55w-...9011-9012/

Hope the link works

I don't think age has anything to do with it bud!

I'm still in my 20's and the halogens lights are shocking

As my FL1 lights are very very good I made a mistake of not adding xenons on mine when I placed the order. However I have retrofitted them now.

Upgraded bulbs do help a bit. As the filament of the high performance bulbs is much thinner it allows the bulb to burn brighter which produces more light. However it causes the bulbs to burn out more quicker.

To get more life out of the bulbs knock off the auto lights  MY14 Kahn Converted Dynamic - Fuji White Ebony/Pimento Interior
MY15 Xenon Headlight Conversion

MY17 RRS SVR - Estoril Blue Cirrus/Ebony 🪣💺’s

Thanks for that tip

I had fitted 7" HID spots to my grill and wired them into the main beam.
They were absolutely astounding, in fact the 'bounce back' from signs was quite blinding.
Also when I went from main beam to dipped, momentarily it was as if I had switched my lights off.

However I no longer have these fitted as I went back to a 'stock' look, they're now in a box awaiting to go to eBay along with the FL2 grill with cut outs.

Pics in gallery FL2 now gone and have a couple of items left for sale:-

Brodit active iPhone holder + Brodit dash clip,
Bluetooth Music Streaming Module.

Be careful when wiring into the Main Beam power feed circuit on the MY 2013 and newer models as the main beam feed supply at the headlight is (I think) controlled by FETS in the electronics box, not a straight feed from the battery / fusebox as on earlier models. Even the additional load of a small relay winding may cause expensive damage (it may not but be very careful).

I’m looking into this at present (when I get time) as I’m going to install a couple of lights on a roof bar powered off the main beam (illegal on road I know). I know an auto electronics chap who runs his own business but I can’t get hold of him at present to get his opinion.

All the best,

Chris Gone:
2002 FL1 TD4 GS Zambezi Silver
2007 FL2 TD4 GS Izmir Blue

you can feed roof lights off the main beam perfectly legally, they just have to have a dedicated switch.

I had roof lights fitted to my FL1 through an illuminated switch which was located in the cruise control master switch hole. Switch has to be illuminated so your aware if the roof lights are live or not for on road driving.

Ron, Thanks for the details and pictures. As you can see those which I have in mind would be quite a lot less expensive and not as prominent.
Chris, Thanks for that info. A word in time, saves . . . well, it could be a lot of expense!. I will bear this in mind and if you do get more details from your electrical guy perhaps you could post it on here. Thanks once again Pete.

Regarding the main beam wiring, I’ll post my findings on here ASAP (Unless another forum member with electronics experience knows?). I made some enquires this afternoon and found out the guy has moved on (divorce unfortunately) but a colleague knows him and will get me his new e-mail & new address for me.  Gone:
2002 FL1 TD4 GS Zambezi Silver
2007 FL2 TD4 GS Izmir Blue

Thanks Chris

An Update (well sort of).

I cannot get hold of my auto electronics friend as I understand he’s off work on long term sick.

However, I have e-mailed the Tech people at Land Rover Owner Magazine for advice. Bearing in mind I explained to them the concern posed by the more complex wiring on later models and the electronic components in the circuit, they still advised tracing the +12V main beam feed at the back of the headlight(s) (which is the method I have traditionally used on previous wiring jobs when fitting auxiliary lights).

I suppose if you are just feeding the solenoid of a relay, the increase in current is minimal (0.08 – 0.1 Amps?).

My first job is to design some mounting brackets for the face-lift bumper based on my previous efforts for my old MY 2007 (decided to have them mounted at the front rather than on a roof bar). I assume the front end body structure of the later models is the same as for earlier models?

I will post an update once I get started (may be a few weeks yet).

All the best,

Chris Gone:
2002 FL1 TD4 GS Zambezi Silver
2007 FL2 TD4 GS Izmir Blue

You could use a micro relay to switch a secondary (main) relay if drawing a minimal current is that critical. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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