Hello! Have 08 Land Rover LR2 i6 auto. When I turn right under hard acceleration there is a rubbing/grinding/vibrating noise from the engine compartment on the passenger side. Sounds low. If I had to put a comparison noise to it, it is like when i had a new custom exhaust on my pick up truck, from momentum of the engine, contact the firewall on hard acceleration but no other time. It's like that but when turning right and accelerating.

Truck is 100% stock.

I've removed the engine cover, skid plates, wheels, calipers, rotors, and did a visual inspection. Nothing there. I used a pry bar under the tire to check for wheel bearing play. None found. CV axle and carrier bearing look good. I grabbed and worked the exhaust side to side as far as it will go but nothing contacts. I have checked all the heat shields on the manifolds to make sure they are tight. All good. I checked all the motor mounts. All seem good except one on passenger side bottom mount on the engine side had worked its way out to the side. Fixed that. Still doing it. Bought a stethoscope and listened through the floorboards while son driving. Definitely passenger side low. Can barely hear it center and driver side through the stethoscope.

Does not do it backwards at all. Can sometimes get it to do it on a hard right in neutral without engine engagement but not often. Once it did it slightly while in park but by the time I got under her it was done. Any thoughts?

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic3731.html...ent+rattle

You could remove wing air vent and check tightness of body fastenings behind vent .

Best I can come up with.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I will give it a whirl. It's a start!

Check your front stabilizer link bars (the vertical bars with tie rods on each end).

Replacing those eliminated a similar occasional noise that was hard to reproduce consistently on our LR2. Also improved overall feel for the front end. They are very inexpensive parts, and may be worth replacing even if they are not fully shot yet. 2008 3.2L I6 Auto

Will do! I work the next two days and won't have a chance to get under the car until Friday. Keep your thoughts and ideas coming so I'll have a list of things to check on Friday. Thank you.

Just a follow up and close off a loose thread. The noise turned out to be the motor mounts. There are three that needed replaced. According to the dealer this is a fairly common occurrence on high mileage LR2's. Hope this helps someone else Someday! I'll be repairing of myself. Any suggestion on the best place to buy these parts?

Engine mount rubbers are likely to special to type. I suggest your local friendly LR dealer.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Well just got back from LR. If the parts only cost $400 how do they think it's reasonable to charge me $1400 installed? Shaking my head.

Well just got back from LR. If the parts only cost $400 how do they think it's reasonable to charge me $1400 installed? Shaking my head.

I thought you guys over the water understood all about capitalism, fitted dealer engine mounts sounds a lot cheaper than ending up in a US hospital and I guess when Trump sends back all those Mexicans you can add a lot more of those $$$$.

Good to hear you bottomed out the problem  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Yep! Exactly right! So in the sprit of capitalism I bought the OEM parts off eBay for the lowest price $280, hired a Mexican mechanic real-quick-like before they're all deported and paid him $20, and made myself a nice hefty profit of $1100 on myself, for myself, so I could go out and buy some blatantly American thing no human on earth would need to own but hey we're American so why not, while telling the world how y'all should live your lives through posts on Facebook on my newest generation iPhone I bought just because.

So for The sake of buttoning up this thread I thought it would repost back. 100% of the noise was the one engine mount (of 3 total) on top in the engine compartment at the front of the motor. After replacing it is now completely fixed and quiet as the day it was new. Here's the write up on replacing the engine mounts. Hope this helps anyone else in the future from having to go to the dealership at a cost of $1400. Cost me $285 in genuine Land Rover parts purchased from Amazon and eBay.


http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic27532.html