Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Skelmersdale
Posts: 141
Rear Differential Oil Seal replacement
After my rear wheel bearing episode a few weeks back, I had purchased a new driveshaft (DS) from eBay (not the unbelievably low priced ones, they had no stock left) but one described very much the same i.e. new, but old production stock. Anyway, whilst I was changing over the knuckle, it seemed prudent to change the DS at the same time (I have always had my doubts over them as there does seem to be a fair amount of play in the shafts). I removed the DS, compared it to the 'new' one and to my surprise I found that the diff end was completely different to mine and it was 50mm shorter. As I was at a point where I couldn't do without the Freely any longer I put the old shaft back in and assembled the rear back together again. Quiet running was restored and I was a happy bunny. The eBay seller did take the DS back by the way, he did claim that the DS on FL2s are handed, but his listing said the opposite?
Last Wednesday, my wife had used the Freely and when I returned home I noticed a strong smell of transmission oil. Looked underneath and there was a patch on the drive and a wet diff, with the concentration coming from the the same output shaft, and spatter on the silencer - doh! I had obviously damaged the seal when refitting the shaft. I noticed a few patches in different locations on the drive so it had been leaking for a few days at least.
So she was off the road once again. Oil seals procured and a pair of driveshafts (this time the unbelievably low priced ones) on their way. All parts ready to fit for the weekend. Here's a few pics on how I did it. It may be of use to some.
First of all, loosen the hub nut. This needs to be done with the wheel on the ground. It is possible to release the stake in the nut without taking the wheel off prior. Remove the centre cap and with a suitable drift tap back the stake until clear of the threads then loosen. The nut is a M24 thread and you need a 32mm socket and a long breaker bar. I used an axle stand to support the tool whilst trying to loosen. It's very tight.
Click image to enlarge
Once loosened, jack up the vehicle, place axle stands to support safely and remove the wheel. Undo the three bolts/nuts for the lower arms and trailing arm from the hub.
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Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Undo the drop link at the ARB end. Undo the handbrake cable brackets, all three of them, unclip the cable from the body clip in the transmission tunnel, in the rear passenger compartment remove the little tray on the centre console to reveal the handbrake cables and detach the corresponding cable, this will allow plenty of freeplay.
Unclip the brake hose from the clip on the suspension strut along with the ABS sensor lead. Undo completely the hub nut.
Click image to enlarge
At this stage the whole leg is free to be slid off the hub bearing and care must be exercised when pulling the hub as the DS must not be allowed to simply drop as this will exert undue stress/load on the CV joints. Make provision for supporting it during this stage. Pull the hub off the DS.
The DS can be removed from the diff. There are a number of ways to do this but as luck would have it mine popped out with little effort. Have a look at this post from JST www.freel2.com/forum/topic18916.html.
Carefully slide out the DS. As you can see, a bit of a mess on mine.
Click image to enlarge
The seal is set in a steel carrier and is an interference fit into the diff. I removed mine by using an offset ring spanner, locating the ring behind the seal and working my way round. It came out eventually with a fair bit of effort. I cleaned up the area and then pondered fitting the new seal. When I have fitted oil seals on engines an appropriately sized socket is usually the order of the day allowing me to tap the seal into position nice and square. However, this seal is much bigger than my limited set of sockets. I found the ideal tool though, a chromed exhaust tip! This sat perfectly on the seal and allowed me to gently tap it home - result.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Refitting is the reverse of the above. Take particular care when fitting the DS into the diff, ensuring not to damage the seal with the end of the DS (like I did first time round).
The lower arms and trailing arm must be tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the hub. I simply used a trolley jack under the hub and lifted it until it was taking the weight off the axle stands and torqued them appropriately (lower arms 175Nm, trailing arm 270Nm).
After everything is refitted, time to check the diff fluid level. With the car level, after removing the filler plug there should be a small trickle of fluid. However, considering this had been leaking for a few days and one of those had been on the motorway, 60 miles round trip I was fearful that the amount of loss would be considerable. On removing the filler plug, there was a steady flow, not a trickle!
So how much fluid is in there?
How did so much get in there?
Should I drain to the prescribed measure?
The good news is that there hasn't been a drop in the level to cause detriment to the diff, he says hopefully.2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)
18th Jul 2016 11:59 am
Pete The Biker
Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 77
I'm afraid I can't answer your questions but that's a great write-up!
Cheers
Pete2007 TD4 HSE Auto
18th Jul 2016 3:30 pm
philclemo
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Skelmersdale
Posts: 141
Thanks Pete2010MY 2.2 e4 (gone but, not forgotten)
Audi TT Roadster 3.2 DSG
FFRR Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (L322)
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18th Jul 2016 11:59 am
