Yorky Bob wrote:

I think the long term answer is buy a new battery.

westville wrote:

Yorky Bob wrote:

I think the long term answer is buy a new battery.

I'm with you on this Bob - providing the source of the battery drain is established
Is it just a duff battery?
Is it charging properly from the car?
Is there a component drawing power when it should not?

All these questions need to be addressed to eliminate the cause of the flat battery AND of course make sure you can get in your vehicle!
(There are some pdf files on y gallery which may help you track down sources of power drain)

alex_pescaru wrote:

Deker wrote:

the spare Key in the fob actually uses power to facilitate unlocking

Nope, it's pure mechanical...
The fact that it also presses a switch to ease the opening is another matter.
But with enough force, it will open/close mechanically.
I know for sure, because, when I don't use the car for prolonged periods of time, I disconnect the battery and lock and then, when I come back, unlock the car with the key blade, pure mechanically, because the battery is obviously not working, being disconnected.

sounds silly, but you have not anything plugged into an accessory socket have you? I know someone who left a fridge plugged into his boot socket, next morning flat battery.

The other, bit more expensive but guaranteed too work option is to get a C-TEK and plug it in when not being used.  MY2014 SD4 XS
Ipanema Sand

MY10 TD4-e GS Manual
Lago Grey Now retired after 8 trouble free years

Have you got an electronic anti rust device. LR tried to flog one of these off to me when I bought the car. These devices continually draw power. Apart from that they have been proven to be a scam more than a decade ago.

Failing that run a cable with an anderson plug somewhere with waterproof rubber cover http://www.jaycar.com.au/50a-anderson-wate...e/p/PT4429 Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Last edited by Lightwater on 12th Jul 2016 5:22 am. Edited 1 time in total

I just changed the battery in the second fob which I had not used for awhile. 2.961 volts & it would not send a signal to the car. The other one was spitting the dummy at 2.981 volts. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

The most common source of unwanted battery drain is a tracker unit whose battery has collapsed...at least here in SA it is

Deker wrote:

Something about the car is sapping power at an alarming rate when closed down and locked.

Unfortunately this is intermittent and therefore very hard to track down!

It's a good idea to take the cover off the manual lock and clean and oil it now and again.

dunkley201 wrote:

Deker wrote:

Something about the car is sapping power at an alarming rate when closed down and locked.

Unfortunately this is intermittent and therefore very hard to track down!

My battery flattened overnight when I inadvertently switched off the engine whilst still on a hands free mobile phone call. Is it possible your Bluetooth circuitry is faulty?

Bob

SYFL2 wrote:

It's a good idea to take the cover off the manual lock and clean and oil it now and again.

scrimple wrote:

sounds silly, but you have not anything plugged into an accessory socket have you? I know someone who left a fridge plugged into his boot socket, next morning flat battery.

The other, bit more expensive but guaranteed too work option is to get a C-TEK and plug it in when not being used.

Deker wrote:

SYFL2 wrote:

It's a good idea to take the cover off the manual lock and clean and oil it now and again.

In the old days it used to be a bit of oil on the key then insert into the lock, would that be ok?

For what it's worth, I just tried the manual lock on mine and it was very stiff too but with perseverance it worked, both from the normally locked position, (1 press on the fob,) and from deadlocked with two presses, it was a lot more stiff from the DL position though, to the point where I initially thought it wouldn't work.

I squirted a fair bit of WD40 into the keyhole and worked it back and forth quite a few times and I think it got slightly easier, however it was still just as stiff when releasing the deadlock, it seems to me there is a greater amount of mechanical linkage and friction to overcome when deadlocked and that WD40 down the keyhole won't get anywhere near it or have any effect on it.

None of which does much to resolve the original flat battery fault though, I seem to remember reading somewhere on the Disco3 site about someone having the same problem and there was a suggestion made about radio frequency interference causing the car to "wake up" periodically and flattening the battery, this could "allegedly" come from nearby TV transmitting masts or repeaters or mobile phone masts or even radar signals from a nearby airport, just a thought

Edited to add; rogue WiFi routers or repeaters too !!