This is how other manufacturers see it

Audi: 24 months
BMW: 24 months, or when indicated by Service Inspection Indicator
Honda: 36 months
Jaguar: 24 months all models except 2009 XF (36 months)
Land Rover: 36 months
Lexus: 36 months or 30,000 miles, which ever comes first
Mercedes-Benz: 24 months
MINI 24 months
Saab: 48 months (all models except 9-7X)
Smart: 24 months or 20,000 miles, which ever comes first
Subaru: 30 months or 30,000 miles (normal service) or 15 months/15,000 miles (severe service)
Suzuki: 24 months or 30,000 miles, which ever comes first (Forenza & Reno), 60 months or 60,000 miles (Grand Vitara and SX4)
Volkswagen: 24 months (New Beetle, City Gold, City Jetta), 36 months (all other models except Routan)
Volvo: 24 months or 37,000 miles (Normal), or 12 months (severe service)

Personally, I would rather have it done, so I did.

The only reason you change brake fluid is because it can absorb moisure from the atmosphere and that lowers the boiling point. When we carry out a service in work, we ALWAYS measure the moisture content. We use this tool that costs around £70

Click image to enlarge

Very interesting that. Might just try it with Hunters when it goes in the week after next. So basically if moisture content >0.5% then worth changing?

Up to 0.5% OK, 0.5% - 2.5% not necessary but up to you, over 2.5% change it. But as I said, ask them for the moisture content level and see what they say. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

The moisture content of brake fluid is NOT the most important factor in modern brake systems, the anti corrosion additives of the fluid are and these break down over time, necessitating the manufacturers recommending it be changed to preserve the integrity of components.

We 'recommend' to our clients that they use water treatment systems to maintain clean water in their dental units, first week back after Easter and we have had dozens of calls for blocked water lines. They all claim and prove that they are using some form of treatment, their monthly 'biological load' tests show that the water is clean, that's what they see, in reality the water lines are clogged with 'biofilm' an organic black mass that grows on the walls of the tubes, they skimp on the cleaning part as it costs money.
Stick a small brush up your cold water tap ... You will be horrified at what comes out.

My point being, tests and readings are fine but do not tell the whole story ... Go on, try the tap

Bit harsh there Taz. I dont deny anybody a small profit i just try to get my servicing and repairs done as economically as i can.
I Trust the people who do the work because i know them. I also purhase most of my items from on line main dealer sites and parts come branded land rover genuine.
So unless they are selling non genuine parts as genuine how could i or anyone else know.

Sorry, it wasn't meant to be harsh, just keeping a lively thread going. The 'trust' part is very important and something that is ever more difficult to come by these days.

We have customers who hand us parts they have sourced elsewhere, we get a disclaimer for any warranty, we will warrant the work but not the components. The dental industry is awash with cheap Chinese ( other fake countries are available) parts, these in some cases have injured patients.

None genuine stuff can be a real pain, some of the copies we find are indistinguishable from the outside, even the packaging is good.
I don't think LR have much of an issue, companies such as Bosch are widely copied, including major components, if you are buying through main dealer sites then the chances of rogue parts is ver slim

A case of for the cost just do it. (Brake Fluid). Easy enough home job if you keep the tank full at all times. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks for the reply Taz,i do understand where your'e coming from.

re the fixed price servicing. My 2011 is due it's 5th year service, and after ringing around getting a bunch of quotes from LR service centers and Indys, and booking it in at one, I stumble on this thread and the 3+ fixed price servicing. Brilliant!

Suffice to say, none of the dealers mentioned it, and I got quotes from £325 up to £450...for an interim service, so compared to £275 on the fixed price (Indy came in at £300 but that included MOT).

I had booked it in for next week for £333 (Guava in Guildford, Surrey) but now I've gone back to ask about the fixed price stuff.

Seems it's a bit messy: the Guava service centre has recently been bought by Hunters. I called the general Hunters service booking line and they confirmed the 3+ is available at all their dealers, but Guava initially have resisted...although they are looking in to it...seems they're in the process of integration (two people I've spoken to at Hunters didn't even know they'd bought it...). On their online booking system, it shows as a possible location but just hangs when you select it...

Unfortunately, there's a several week backlog at the other Hunters in Guildford so can't really switch appointments to get their fixed pricing. FL2 2011 SD4 XS in Galway Green

I would say that any car over 3 years old that you are going to keep for at least another 2 years would probably be better of being serviced by a trusted indy. My recent experience of selling my 09 plate GS to Listers in p/x was that they only gave it a cursory glance over and were not concerned about the fact that the preceding 3 years service records were by an Indy as the car would be going to auction. I didnt give a fig about the value as it was the cost to change which was important.

I now have a quandry in that the service record for my new car is held on line by LR - how do we get over that??? MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

I don't think it's quite as clear cut as saying that an older car would be better off being serviced by an independent. I have both LR dealer and independent LR specialists on my doorstep. I have no reason to distrust any of them. I don't think the car would be better off being serviced by one or the other. So it's a financial decision in the end, and with LR's fixed priced servicing the LR dealer is cheaper than any of the independent specialists.

For a trade sale, I'd agree that dealer service history counts for zip these days. Not necessarily the case for private sales however. It may not add anything to the value, but it could make the difference between someone deciding to buy it rather than walk away.

A good indy for me, always; even if it were in warranty (not that it ever would be), I would use an indy. My D3 is maintained DIY, but for anything I can't/don't want to do, I have as good a indy as exists within reach in the form of Steve Norman.  Freelander 2 2007 TD4 Manual HSE Tambora Flame
Discovery 3 2006 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver
Previously: Freelander 2 2007 TD4 Manual SE Santorini Black

Taz, are you sure the LR/ FL2 is still 36mths, I was informed it was reduced to 24mths by my main dealer. However that branch is also a Volvo dealer my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

tenet wrote:

I now have a quandry in that the service record for my new car is held on line by LR - how do we get over that???