Hi All,

Have been doing a bit of research here and on the web but can't seem to get a definitive answer on a problem with reverse parking sensors being broken when tow bar fitted.

I have a 2008 HSE FL2 from new, and had arranged for a 13-pin single socket detachable tow bar to be fitted by a well known national tow bar and trailer specialist beginning with I...

First problem was they fitted a 13-pin single socket fixed swan neck tow bar, despite being about to charge me for the detachable model. However they will be swapping this with the correct fitting this week. The bigger problem is that since the tow bar has been fitted the front and rear parking sensors no longer work. There is a beep and the parking sensor light flashes when the engine is started indicating a fault. They 'checked' the fault before I left their branch but claimed they hadn't broken anything, saying all they do is disconnect the sensors on the driver side in order to remove the bumper. That may be so but it worked when I arrived and didn't when I left.

I believe the tow bar is a Brink model, but the electronics are PCT, possibly with a ZR2500 interface.

So my questions are:
Is this a know problem with a known fix?

Does a 2008 FL2 require a software update to enable a non-Landrover fitted tow bar to work with parking sensors? Some posts suggested a software update while others said none was required. If a software update is required what do I ask for at the dealership and how much does it cost?

If the fitters can't fix the problem, and I have them remove everything for a refund, will I have the same problem with another brand of towbar and electrics?

In my simple view I brought a fully functional car to the fitter, which is now damaged, and I want to avoid paying for a tow bar and also paying land rover a repair fee to fix anything they have done.

Thanks in advance for enduring the long post!

How did the tow bar fitter connect the electrics?
The parking sensors circuit don't like the C2 bypass modules as it upsets the canbus signal pulse to the parking sensor module. I had to remove soldered wires from my free lander and fit a plug in electrical kit which needs to be programed to tell the car you have a tow bar which will activate the trailer stability program and disables the rear parking sensors when the trailer is plug in.
Westfalia manufactures the towing electric kits for land rover they are cheaper if you purchase direct from them.
https://www.westfalia-automotive.com/uk/products/wiring-kits/

The tow bar is not the problem, it is the electrics. If you fit dedicated electrics (an easy DIY job) the car will need a software update by a dealer or other third party with the kit to do the job. Personally I would go to a dealer - for both, the electrics and the software update - it is a one off cost and it will then work as designed / expected with a guarantee.

MY13 and later cars are fully plug and play, earlier cars need the software update. The cost of the Software update varies from dealer to dealer, place to place.

Your towbar fitter will indeed have disconnect the rear sensor - a single connector - to remove the bumper. Has he reconnected it?

Move to New Zealand, yet to see a trailer with any electrics fitted on my travels there On a more serious note my first FL2 a MY10 was a disaster for the first 6 weeks due to poor fitting of the tow bar electrics, kept going into limp mode.

Thanks for the responses.

@Turboextreme - not sure exactly how the electrics are connected. i can see a cable run from the 13 pin plug to the PCT box which i believe is the individual wires for the indicators, etc. this is wired into the fuse box, not into the trailer fuse slot but a spare one. not sure how the original wires have been disconnected and reconnected.

@happynomad - yes the rear sensors are reconnected ok, that was the first and really only thing the fitter checked. I spoke to two independent LR specialists today, and neither thought a software update was necessary but did mention that coding might be required to configure the electrics. Hence my original confusion as to whether an update was necessary or not.

if it requires a software update then so be it. i just didn't want to conclude the transaction with the fitter knowing that the install wasn't completely functional and potentially be left in a situation where it incurs more cost and uncertainty whether the update is indeed required. in my simple view of customer experience i would have thought a national installer would have at least mentioned that as a possible prerequisite, like they mention the possibility of a bumper cut, rather than just shrugging their shoulders.

turboextreme wrote:

How did the tow bar fitter connect the electrics?
The parking sensors circuit don't like the C2 bypass modules as it upsets the canbus signal pulse to the parking sensor module. I had to remove soldered wires from my free lander and fit a plug in electrical kit which needs to be programed to tell the car you have a tow bar which will activate the trailer stability program and disables the rear parking sensors when the trailer is plug in.
Westfalia manufactures the towing electric kits for land rover they are cheaper if you purchase direct from them.
https://www.westfalia-automotive.com/uk/products/wiring-kits/

behind the boot trim on the left hand side you will find a large multi plug which is for the oem towing electric kit this is where you need to take the indicator feed from and brake light / reverse feed from.
If they have taken the feed directly from the loom that goes to the tail light it will cause problems.
1) brake light feed isn't fused if too much current draw is detected the ecu will shut down that circuit.
2) Indicator voltage is monitored for voltage ie if bulb blows it will flash the indicators faster. If you tap into the feed you will cause too much current draw this will cause intermittent spiking which causes electrical shut down loss of electrics.
3) Reverse light feed if you connect directly to this you will cause the parking sensors to malfunction as the ecu will think there is insufficient power in the circuit due to a interrupted can signal pulse.

scribble wrote:

Thanks for the responses.

@Turboextreme - not sure exactly how the electrics are connected. i can see a cable run from the 13 pin plug to the PCT box which i believe is the individual wires for the indicators, etc. this is wired into the fuse box, not into the trailer fuse slot but a spare one. not sure how the original wires have been disconnected and reconnected.

@happynomad - yes the rear sensors are reconnected ok, that was the first and really only thing the fitter checked. I spoke to two independent LR specialists today, and neither thought a software update was necessary but did mention that coding might be required to configure the electrics. Hence my original confusion as to whether an update was necessary or not.

if it requires a software update then so be it. i just didn't want to conclude the transaction with the fitter knowing that the install wasn't completely functional and potentially be left in a situation where it incurs more cost and uncertainty whether the update is indeed required. in my simple view of customer experience i would have thought a national installer would have at least mentioned that as a possible prerequisite, like they mention the possibility of a bumper cut, rather than just shrugging their shoulders.

I read this with great interest as I have just bought a 2008 HSE auto and like you scribble live in NI! I have been a bit wary of contacts I have made with towbar fitters as none can explain how the electrics connect and how the sensor etc etc work after fitting!

I am toying with buying LR towbar and electrics and fitting my self

Welcome fellow NI members - remember if you fit original LR electrics on an early model you still need module activated in CCF 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

Thanks Jim!

I note your have had many Freelanders! This is my first!

Have had many defenders; Several. discoverys and Range Rovers

NA1959 wrote:

I read this with great interest as I have just bought a 2008 HSE auto and like you scribble live in NI! I have been a bit wary of contacts I have made with towbar fitters as none can explain how the electrics connect and how the sensor etc etc work after fitting!

I am toying with buying LR towbar and electrics and fitting my self

Thanks happy nomad, I'll do more research and then buy the Land Rover bobs.

Think ridged bar rather than detach as many ones on here have had issues

I want to fit a tow bar to my 2008 HSE auto diesel .
I see plenty of post on the subject, but can find exactly what is required of the electrics.

Can any member suggest where to buy the items required and how much?

What's a good source of the electric kit,

Any members fitted bars themselves,

I am in Folkestone Kent any dealers that specialise in fitting tow bars,

Members seem to recommend the witter detachable?????

I would prefer to go the non main dealer route.

What do the main dealers charge to set up the software for towing,

Try PFJones - on line plus branches. They offer a good selection of bars. You need the correct loom to connect to the car. Use genuine LR or a good aftermarket specialist. Look up Right Connection on the web. Knows what he is doing Your model will need software update once the loom is fitted for it all to work. 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)